Monday, June 29, 2026

Out of Our Rut Blog Welcome Page


Welcome to the Out of Our Rut blog landing page.

Who we are:

We are a couple of former engineers that lived and worked in the Rochester New York area for over 30 years. When we were laid off from two different companies, one day apart, we took that as a sign to change things up. We had built a beautiful home on 50 acres and loved the place, but with plenty of time on our hands, we began to travel more and realized that when we were on the road for weeks on end, we didn't really miss all the “stuff” we had back home. Plus the work involved with maintaining our home and property seemed to be the only reason we would head back home. That prompted us to get out of our rut and sell 95% of our possessions and our home and move into our 38 foot motorhome and travel the country full time starting in June of 2016.
Chris and Jack Hiking in Washington State
At Pullout Along Rugged Oregon Coast
Our mission:

To explore the country with a strong bias towards outdoor activities. Our passions are hiking and geocaching with some mountain biking on the side. I am an avid photographer. I guess working at Eastman Kodak for 32 years had an influence in that. And while we live in a motorhome and stay in many campgrounds, we really are not campers. We seldom have campfires and don't have a corn hole game. We rarely stay at a campground for its amenities. We pick a place that is near where we want to explore. We think of it more like our home happens to have wheels and can move around. Our desire in these travels is to slow the pace. We didn't want to see if we could get to all the National Parks as quickly as possible. We like to keep a travel day to less than 200 miles and if the place warrants, stay for a week or more.
At Geocaching Headquarters in Seattle for #10,000
The blog:

For friends and family (as well as us) to keep track of what we have been up to, we have created this blog. It chronicles where we've been and what we've done as we wander around the country. Each stop along the way will, at minimum, get mentioned in the blog. Some longer stops in areas we enjoyed may get multiple blog posts in order to give that stop it's due. Generally the blog has lots of photographs as I find it difficult to eliminate photos I like. The blog will talk about the campground to some extent, but it shouldn't be considered a campground review. We seldom seem to exhaust the things we want to explore before we exhaust ourselves and need to move on. That means we may completely skip some activities or places in an area that others may consider essential. We look at that as a reason to come back in the future.

Pretty Sunset in Quartzite Arizona

At the Window in Big Bend National Park
This landing page:

The problem with just about any blog is that fact it is chronological. This is fine since that is how the events occurred in real life. But since our blog is so much about a given location, it can be difficult for somebody to find a specific blog post for a given location. I even find it a challenge to remember when we happened to be at a given location if I wanted to look something up. For instance, if someone asked about Twin Falls Idaho. I know we stayed there but it might take me awhile to figure out that we were there in June of 2017 to get them to the right post. If I could only look at a map of all the places we have stayed and have an easy way to get to the relevant blog post.

Since I already use Google My Maps to keep track of our locations, I have created a special map that has all of our stops since going full time. None of the routes are included in the map since that just seems to clutter it up and don't really add value. By clicking the link below the map, an interactive map with all of our stops will open in another window. This map was improved in 2026 to better accommodate the number of years we have been travelling. The current year will shown at the bottom of the key but all prior years will be shown in a different layer with each year being a different color. If you click one of the years in the key to the left, all the stops from that year are highlighted on the map -  which is a convenient way to show the route that from that year. It is also possible to move around the map and zoom in an area of interest.  Clicking on any pin on the map will pop up the name of the location along with a link to the blog post(s) associated with that stop. Since I am nearly always 2 or more weeks behind in the blog, some of the most recent map points may not have a link to a blog, but they will in time. 

So if you want to see what we found to explore in a given area, this should provide a much easier way to find the blog post.




Our Tenth Year of Fulltiming in Review

Wow, we’ve reached a milestone in our fulltime adventures - one decade on the road! I still remember sitting in our home of 16 years in western New York waiting to hear from our real estate attorney to confirm that the closing had gone well and the proceeds would be deposited into our account the following day. We were officially homeless except for the 38 foot motorhome with Jeep in tow. We had spent the previous 9 months or so selling, donating or trashing 95% of our worldly possessions. We had found room in the rig for everything we thought we should bring with us as we start our travels. We had a few boxes of keepsakes to store in family members’ basements in Ohio. The plan was to live in our ~450 square foot “home” and travel the country. There weren’t any real set goals except to experience what other parts of the USA had to offer. We also didn’t really have a timeline in our minds other to enjoy as many places as we can and try to set a pace that actually permits us to get a feel for a location.

In those past 10 years, we have camped 3652 nights at over 450 places. While writing this blog post, I got to thinking, how often do we spend just one night in a place as we passed through an area on our way to a distant destination? Or how often do we spend a couple weeks or months at a place? Well, I have a spreadsheet with all the underlying data and we used to be engineers with analytical skills so we should be able to answer that question.

Turns out, roughly a quarter of our stops are just for one night. That might sound like a lot but it only represents around 3% of our nights camped. This is a big country and when we are repositioning from one part to another, there are times where we are just trying to make distance so we might do a series of one night stops. We try to limit our travel days to 200 miles or less so it’s hard for us to cross the country quickly. About 40% of our stops, we have spent between 2 and 6 nights. This duration of stop might be to simply break up the tedium of driving long distances several days in a row. But it also might be some sort of stop for service on the motorhome that takes a few days before we can continue on. Frequently we will spend a few days to see some areas that have a handful of things we want to see or do but don’t require a longer stay. Our next stop duration is between 1 and 2 weeks which covers another quarter of our stops. These are places that we felt justified spending some time to explore. Often we wish we could have stayed even longer but maybe it was a state park that often has a 2 week maximum stay limit. There were a few times where we overestimated what there was to do from a stop and wish we had reduced the time spent there but those are fairly infrequent. We are pretty good at finding things to do.

I next broke the stop duration into longer stops with the following categories: 2 to 4 weeks, 1 to 2 months, and 2 or more months. These represent a smaller percentage of our stops but account for a just over half of our nights. For the longest duration stay of 2 or more months, we had 11 stops that equals roughly one third of our nights. Just over half of these were at a winter destination in either Florida or Arizona. But 5 of those longer stops occurred during the summer travel season. A couple of those were “forced” upon us when COVID messed up everyone’s travels but some were planned to take advantage of visiting friends and sights back in western New York or exploring the mountains of western North Carolina. We feel we have done a reasonable job of slowing the travel pace when it makes sense and moving somewhat faster when needed.

Below is the travel map from year 10. As you can see, we have pretty good range both north to south and east to west. I am including a link below the map that will actually open up the underlying Google Map I used to document our journey. This will permit you to zoom and scroll around. Plus clicking on a pin for any location will open a popup window with link to any blog post written for that stop.



It’s clear from the map that we have done a pretty good job of covering the country north to south and east to west. We started out year 10 in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan having just completed a 2 week Habitat for Humanity build in Marquette. We had headed to the far western side of the UP and spent about 2 weeks exploring before heading south into Wisconsin. The two weeks we spent camped there was mostly spent in Oshkosh at the annual air show. That stop rates near the top of our list, not just in the past 12 months but in the past 10 years. It ranks right up there with the Albuquerque balloon fiesta or the Lake Havasu fireworks festival. From here we headed into the Minnesota for around 5 weeks exploring the Twin Cities and some of the beautiful state parks in the northern portion of the state. Then we headed into eastern North Dakota for a week or so to experience some of the best geocaching we have seen in Gilby.

We then headed back into Minnesota to visit the North Shore before entering Wisconsin to check out the Apostle Islands on the northern side of the state. In central Wisconsin we got to get up close and personal with a cranberry harvest. The next 4 weeks was spent with short stops in Iowa, Illinois and Indiana and longer stays in Tennessee and Georgia before making it back to The Great Outdoors in Titusville Florida. After nearly 6 months of sitting still, we were ready to start traveling again as spring approached. After completing a couple of motorhome repairs in western Florida and South Carolina, we were ready to start our travels west. Mainly following I-40 through Tennessee, Arkansas, Oklahoma and the northern panhandle of Texas taking 3 weeks to get to New Mexico. Here we plan to explore the mountains in the northern portion of the state with 2 weeks in Taos, 1 week in Los Alamos and as I write this post at the beginning of 2 weeks in Santa Fe.

Like in the past, I’m including the “heat maps” that help to show how long we have stayed in the various states. No real surprise that Florida is the “winner” again but we did camp in 16 different states the past 12 months. We finally added Oklahoma to our list as full time travelers. The second map shows a similar map but for the full 10 years. At this point we are up to 46 states. We have camped in 3 of the 4 remaining states but New Jersey and Delaware were from a little before going fulltime in 2015 and we have camped in a rental RV in Alaska way back in 1995! One last heat map is showing all 10 years but this time broken down into the county level to better see what parts of the states we have camped in.

Heat Map for Year #10

Heat Map from 10 Years of Fulltime

Same As Above but Broken Down to County Level

Of course I have the table that helps show what it costs to live this lifestyle. It doesn’t include costs that we would have if we lived a “normal” life in a sticks and bricks home. So healthcare, groceries, dining out and other entertainment isn’t part of the table. But it does show how many stops we had, the number of miles on both the motorhome and the Jeep as well as the fuel for each. It’s clear there has been an uptick in both the number of stops and the miles driven in the motorhome. This is simply a function of the route and pace we picked. Other than our extended stay at TGO, we have only had 10 stops where we spent more than 7 nights. To some extent our travel plans built in the pace that led to the faster pace and higher miles.

Condensed Stats for Last 6 Years

The other line item in the table is the amount we spent for camping. This year wasn’t our highest year but it does come in second place. Since we have 10 years of data, I was curious what a plot of average dollars per night looks like over the decade. The chart below shows that data with the blue line. It’s clear that there is a fair amount of year to year variability but I also noticed that there is a definite upward trend in the costs over time. The red line represents the trend of the raw data and it obviously is increasing. Since we haven’t changed our camping style to higher end RV resorts versus state parks or Elks Lodges like we typically like to stay at, I can only assume the slope is a function of inflation over time. The good news is the slope of the line represents 63 cents per day increase each year. That increase equates to $230 more spent camping each year so I’m not too concerned that it will have any bearing on how or where we camp.

Graph Showing Average Cost per Night to Camp for 10 Years
Blue Line Average Data, Red is Linear Trendline

Like years past, we like to use our anniversary blog posts to highlight our favorite hikes or bike rides of the past 12 months. I was initially concerned there really wouldn’t be many. It’s not like we had traveled to Glacier National Park, the Adirondacks, the Green Mountain of Vermont or other classic “hiking” destinations. But after going through the past blog posts as well as my notes from places we’ve more recently visited that don’t yet have a post written, I was pleasantly surprised and fondly remembered quite a few hikes and bike rides that made the cut. For each hike I will give a brief description of the hike, a favorite photo from it and a link to the blog post which will describe it in more detail. In chronological order here are the top 8 hikes and bike rides from year 10.

  • Escarpment Trail - Ontonagon MI
Situated in the Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park of far western Upper Peninsula of Michigan, this park is beautiful and this trail was the best of several we tried in the area. AllTrails lists this as an 8.2 mile out and back hike with over 1600 feet of elevation gain. the trail follows a ridge that overlooks the wonderful Lake of the Clouds and the Carp River. There are several named peaks along the ridge with lots of rock outcroppings to take in the scenic valley below. The last section of the trail drops 400 feet through the woods and we suspected it wouldn't be nearly as scenic so by skipping this we keep it to 6.5 miles and 1360 feet elevation gain.

Blog post with Escarpment Trail Hike

View Along Escarpment Trail in Porcupine Mountains

  • Bean and Bear Loop Trail - Silver Bay MN

The North Shore of Minnesota along Lake Superior has a lot to offer outdoor enthusiasts. Bean and Bear Loop Trail is a 7 mile long hike with just over 1000 feet of elevation gain. The trail goes 2 miles before hitting the loop portion of the hike. In another mile, you have reached the first of the two lakes. Since we took the loop clockwise, Bean Lake was first. There are beautiful views all along the ridge overlooking the lakes. We had the start of autumn colors but I suspect spring wildflowers would be nice too. 

 
Bear and Bean Lakes Lined Up
  • Lakeshore Trail - Cornucopia WI
Part of the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, this trail follows the rugged shoreline of northern Wisconsin along Lake Superior but from 70 feet above the water. The constant churn of the lake has eroded many sea caves all along the cliff wall. With the curves in the shoreline, there are many opportunities to look below and see the caves. The trail is an out and back that starts at Meyers Beach (where parking is somewhat limited) and goes for 5.4 miles to a primitive campsite. The last sea cave viewpoint is about 2 miles out and is well worth hiking that far. We continued nearly 2 miles beyond that and found the trail to be okay, but nothing special. Other more unique options to see the caves is by kayak or even hiking on the frozen lake in the dead of winter.



Sea Caves Along Lakeshore Trail
  • Beach Bike Ride - New Smyrna Beach FL
The town of New Smyrna Beach is right along the Atlantic Ocean in central Florida. While not technically a trail per se, there is a 5 mile stretch of beach where cars are permitted to drive the sand. It would be possible to bike on the car "lanes" but the sand is much firmer for bikes on the ocean side of the vehicles. You must pay attention to the tide to successfully bike here but the morning we went, we had low tide, light winds and cool but sunny conditions. To the south we found the beach was bikeable even beyond the car permissible area - but e-bikes are not permitted beyond there. We went until the sand became too soft to easily ride. Back to the north and beyond our starting point is Smyrna Dunes Park. Bikes are not permitted on the long boardwalk in the park but worth a look. In total, we managed a 16 mile bike ride that was quite unique.


Ponce Inlet Lighthouse
  • Rock Garden Trail - Palo Duro Canyon SP Canyon TX
About a hour hour southeast of Amarillo, Palo Duro Canyon is an incredible place in the otherwise barren landscape that makes up this area of north Texas. There are other more popular and strenuous trails here that likely would have been even better than Rock Garden, but we were there during an early heat wave and this trail seemed to be a safer choice for the one day we had available. We only went as far as needed to get to some excellent overlooks on the Rock Garden Trail - which is about 1.5 miles up the trail. We modified the return hike to come across the Lower Comanche Trail to the Mesquite Campground and then back along the Cottonwood Trail to the parking area making a 5.3 mile loop with just over 1000 feet elevation. By getting a very early start we finished around noon with a temperature of 88 degrees. Whether it is this trail or the more popular Lighthouse Trail, Palo Duro Canyon is well worth a visit.


View of Palo Duro Canyon from Rock Garden Trail
  • Cebello Mesa Trail - Taos NM
Taos has a wide variety of hiking trails. Two of them made our list of favorites but they couldn't be more different. Cebello Mesa Trail is north of town along the Rio Grande River. It drops 700 feet in the first mile as it works down toward the bottom of the canyon and near water level. Once past all the switchbacks, the trail is relatively flat as it continues upstream for another 3 miles or so. There are several back country primitive camping sites along the way. It definitely has a desert like feel with all the prickly pear cactus in bloom. We made it out 2.7 miles to the second camping area. While eating lunch at the shelter we realized a storm was rolling in from the north. We decide to error on the side of caution and head back since the climb back up the side of the canyon would be a tough one. We made it back to the car just as it started to sprinkle. Beautiful area and trail, just be careful of the unpredictable New Mexico weather.


Heading Down to Rio Grande River
  • Williams Lake Trail - Taos NM
This trail starts at Taos Ski Valley in the mountains northeast of town. One of the more popular trails in the area, this 4 mile out and back trail gains 1000 feet in elevation which wouldn't be too bad but it starts at just over 10,200 feet. Roughly 4500 feet higher in elevation than Cebello Mesa makes a huge difference in the landscape and vegetation - not to mention the impact on our breathing. Maybe it's just the views are breathtaking? The grade of the trail is fairly consistent the whole way up to the pretty alpine lake. There was still some snow on the surrounding peaks and if you venture beyond the lake, you will treat yourself to a nice waterfall. Better yet, there is a German restaurant near the trailhead and ski lift to treat ourselves to lunch and a beer after a 4.9 mile, 1300 foot elevation gain hike. 

Blog post not written yet
 
Williams Lake

  • Bayo Canyon Trail - Los Alamos NM
Los Alamos is quite the unusual town. Sitting up on a high mesa, there are multiple canyons carved in the area all around town. Bayo Canyon Trail is a loop that follows one of these canyons on the north side of town. The 4 mile loop has about 500 feet of elevation gain and being in the vicinity of 7000 feet, it isn't too strenuous. It was unreal how you start near a busy roundabout in town and after a half mile you feel like you are in the middle of nowhere except for the expensive homes perched on the top of the canyon walls. We follow the loop in a counterclockwise direction which starts with a gradual decline into the canyon. As we get further into the canyon, it is a bit confusing because the other side (the return trail) is only about 1000 feet away but across a 250 foot canyon. For a while it isn't at all clear how we will get over there. The solution was clear once we made it to the canyon floor at a point where it has widened up a bit. We cross the valley and find the one challenging part of the trail - coming back up over 300 feet in just over a third of a mile. We have to take the spur trail out to the viewpoint of the canyon. It only adds a quarter mile or so to the total hike and is worth the view. The return trail is a much wider path and from this vantage point we can easily see the trail we came out on. Incredible to such a remote feeling hike in a town.

Blog post not written yet

View Over Bayo Canyon

Below is the map that shows all 450+ stops in the past 10 years. Clicking on the link provided below the map will bring up the Google Map that permits you to zoom and pan around to get a closer view of a location you might be interested in. I had recently run into a limitation with how Google Maps functions and needed to completely rework how the map data is presented. As it turns out, the new format is actually much more user friendly. Each calendar year has its own color. If you hover the cursor over any of the years, those stops for the year will be highlighted showing what our general route was. For stops in the current year, the stops are still shown as individual blue dots. Clicking on any of the pins will open a popup window with the name of the stop, what year and a link to the blog post(s) written for that location. If you aren’t familiar with our blog posts, think of them as more of a what there is to see and do in an area but not as a campground review. A post may mention the campground but generally my writing is geared toward hiking, biking and general sightseeing in an area. If you enjoy hiking, biking or geocaching, these blog posts might be worth a look. I also generally tend to take lots of photos (working 32 years at Eastman Kodak has something to do with that!) and often will have plenty of pictures to help you experience an area like we did and maybe will even convince you that place is worth a visit.

Tuesday, June 23, 2026

Los Alamos Part 1

Map of this blog's locations click this link to open the map

After 2 weeks in Taos, our next stop in the mountains of northern New Mexico is to the rather isolated town of Los Alamos. It is about a 76 mile drive to the Elks Lodge in downtown Los Alamos. It’s a pretty drive with much of it following along the Rio Grande River. Our plan is to spend 7 nights at the lodge which offers 50 amp electric and water. We had contacted the lodge to check on availability a few days earlier and were told we would have a spot. We arrived before the lodge opened for the day. While we were trying to figuring how we wanted to orient the rig in the spot, the Elk member that had responded to our request drove up and introduced himself. It wasn’t clear how he happened to know we were there unless he was driving by and noticed a rig in the otherwise empty parking lot.

Made It to Los Alamos

Part of our reason for wanting to visit this part of the state is to complete our visits to the 3 places associated with the Manhattan Project. We had visited possibly the least well known of the 3 Manhattan Project sites - Hanford in Washington state - back in June of 2017 where we toured the B-Reactor. Back then we were really just checking out some of the attractions in the Tri-Cities area of Washington during our 10 nights camping in a Corps of Engineers park. It was then that we realized we enjoyed the tour and should really check out Oak Ridge Tennessee and Los Alamos New Mexico. Before we managed to fit these stops on our travels plans, we had fortuitously ended up in Alamogordo New Mexico in April of 2018 on the day that they open up the Trinity Test Site in the northern part of the White Sands Missile Range to the general public. This is where the first atomic bomb was detonated in 1945 which led to the bombs used over Japan to end World War II. It took us another 8 years before we actually fit stops at the final two Manhattan Project towns but 2026 was the year to complete our mission. We toured Oak Ridge in just over a month ago and now we will get to see Los Alamos.

Since we had a few hours before the lodge opened, we decide to head over to the Manhattan Project National Historical Park visitor center that is just a few blocks away so it’s a quick walk. It was only open for another half hour or so but we figured we could stamp our National Park passport and check out the displays in that time. It’s not a big place but there was a ranger and a couple of volunteers inside. We ended up talking with one of the volunteers until they were just about to close. He told us all about the origins of Los Alamos and its history. We could tell the other workers were looking to close up so we skipped the displays and headed to the Los Alamos visitor center on the other end of the same building. The woman working the desk was fairly young and when we asked about hiking in the area, she had a wealth of information to share. We got a lot of good suggestions and a few maps before we headed out.

Manhattan Project Visitor Center

We still had time before we could go back to the lodge to register and pay for the week, so we headed down the street to checkout “Bathtub Row”. The five houses on this block were originally built in 1917 for the Los Alamos Ranch School which owned the land and operated on the property before the government decided this was a good place to build a secret town for the Manhattan Project. The homes here had bathtubs whereas all the other housing built for the project were hastily constructed buildings with only showers. People like J. Robert Oppenheimer and Enrico Fermi lived in these well appointed homes during the project. Several of them are now privately owned and off limits to visitors. One of them is open for tours if you purchase a ticket at a local museum.

Privately Owned Home on Bathtub Row

Old Army Car Out Front

Oppenheimer House

On the way back, we check out the Fuller Lodge. This beautiful building was built in 1928 as a community center for the boys ranch. It transitioned into meeting rooms and a mess hall for during its Manhattan Project years. Today is is open to the public for events and has an art gallery.

Fuller Lodge

Vertical Log Building

Just behind the visitor centers is Ashley Pond. There is a nice walkway around the pond with tables and benches for visitors to sit and relax.

Fountain in Ashley Pond

Fish Sculpture

We walk back to the lodge and by now it was open and there were about 10 members sitting around the bar. We head in to register and pay. We start talking with some of the members and get a better feel for the town of Los Alamos. One of them works at the laboratory so he had a bit more insight to its inner workings. The town really doesn’t have enough room to house all the employees working at the laboratory so a great many of them drive in daily from a few nearby towns or even from Albuquerque - over 90 miles away! The lodge turned out to be fairly quiet at night with one exception. One hundred yards from our rig is an intersection with a crosswalk. There isn’t a lot of traffic at night and practically no pedestrians, but the crosswalk has the buttons for pedestrians push to get a “walk” signal along with the synthetic voice telling them it is safe to cross. If that’s all it did, there wouldn’t have been a problem since I doubt the button was pressed more than a handful of times per day. The real issue was the fact that in its normal state waiting for the button to be pushed, it beeps. It does that 24/7, day or night with a beep every second. At night when it cools off enough to open the windows to sleep, we could clearly hear that incessant beeping.

For our first full day, we headed about 20 miles to the west to Valles Caldera National Preserve. This 88,900 acre park is in the Jemez Mountains. Volcanic activity 1.2 million years ago created what is here today - a 14 mile wide circular depression surrounded by mountains. We start out with a hike that has its trailhead about 2 miles before the main entrance to the visitor center. Our goal is to hike the Coyote Call Trail Loop. It’s just under 3 miles and just over 500 feet of elevation gain. We figure it makes sense to get the hike started early before it becomes too hot. The trail ranges from 8700 to about 9200 feet, so the higher elevation should help moderate the temperature a bit. The trailhead parking is directly across the street from an elk viewing area but none were visible when we first looked.

View on Drive to Valles Caldera

Elk Viewing Area

Starting Up Trail

The trail starts climbing up right away. About a half mile in, the other hike that follows this trail splits off and continues up to the ridge of this hill. We stay to the left and follow a trail that stays about level halfway up the hill. While the Rabbit Ridge Trail might have provided a better view since it climbs nearly 900 feet, we picked our hike based on a geocache being hidden along it. About 3/4 mile into the hike, we came upon a couple of women doing some trail maintenance with a hand saw. We initially assumed they were part of the park service but it turned out they were just conscientious hikers doing their part. We chatter for quite some time and got a few more hiking and sightseeing suggestions from them. They asked if we had seen the elk from the parking area and said if we look closely in the vast meadow below, we might be able to pick out some of the herd. Sure enough, when the tree cover opened up along our trail we could just make out the dozen or so elk grazing likely more than a mile from our spot.

Overlooking Caldera in Distance

Elk a Mile Away

Better Caldera View


As we worked around the eastern edge of the trail, we needed to head a few hundred feet off trail to go find the geocache. This whole area had a wildfire in the 2022 timeframe but it sounded like the ammo can had survived the flames and heat with just a few plastic trinkets being melted inside. It hadn’t been logged in over a year but we managed to make the find and were amazed how good of shape it was in given how the area looks.

Bell Flower


Burned Area Near Geocache

The rest of the hike was all downhill. The trail seemed a little more overgrown but it also didn’t seem to be impacted by the fire. We made it back to the car and headed into the park to check out the visitor center.


Main Entrance to Vales Caldera National Preserve

Visitor Center

We knew they had some sort of ranger program that explains the geology of the region and how it came to be. Fortunately we had time to have our lunch at one of the picnic tables before the program was to start. They have an 8 foot diameter table that represents the caldera and animation displayed on the table showing what geologists believe to have happened all those millions of years ago to create what we have today. It was kind of interesting but hard to get pictures of it in action.

Geology Display


This area was in private ownership from the 1860’s until 2000. Initially it was used for sheep grazing but over time it changed to cattle. Many of the old buildings were the homes or barns for the cowboys and animals are still standing on the grounds of this preserve which came under the National Park System in 2014. We walked around some of the old buildings and read about how they were used over the years.

Old Commissary

Bond Cabin

Old Barn

We were considering coming back to do a long bike ride that travels on some of the dirt roads and trails in the park to complete a15 mile loop. While we were walking around the buildings, we saw a couple of cyclists heading our way. They had camping gear on their bikes so we suspected they were fairly serious riders. We flagged them down and asked them about the trails since they were coming from the place we thought we might ride. They had only followed the dirt road into the park to do some camping so they didn’t know about the other trails but the impression we got from them was it likely wouldn’t be all that much fun. Better to find that out before we haul the bikes out here later in the week. We head back to the car and selected one more hike/geocache to try on our way back to Los Alamos. On the main park road out is an area with lots of prairie dogs. We stop to check them out.

Prairie Dog on Alert

The cache we wanted to find was on the Valley Grande Trail on the east side of the caldera. It was less than a half mile from the parking area along Highway 4 so we thought it would be fairly quick and easy to go for the find. We really should have looked more closely at the trail map for this particular hike. We didn’t have great cell reception so checking AllTrails wasn’t going to happen. So we parked and went on our merry way.

Valley Grande Trailhead

Fire Came Through Here Too

Well it turns out that even though the cache was 0.37 miles from parking, the trail to it was a series of switchbacks dropping over 400 feet into the caldera. In a little over a mile, we finally made it to ground zero, made the find and then had the long uphill climb back to the car. Hopefully lesson learned but I doubt it!

Columbine

Down in Caldera

The next day we head over to visit some of Bandelier National Monument. The main portion of this park is south of Los Alamos but there is a smaller, satellite property east of town and about 12 miles from the main park. Tsankawi is an historical ancestral pueblo village. There is a 1.5 mile trail that loops through the old ruins. It’s going to be another hot day so we are on the trail just after 8 AM and we are the only car in the parking lot. We start up the trail and a quarter mile in we hit our first ladder. Sometimes Chris can be afraid of trails with ladders but she has no problem heading up.

Tsankawi Entrance


Chris Made It Up First Ladder

The trail follows a ledge for a few hundred feet before hitting the split in the trail which forms the loop. Taking a left will head further up and is likely the preferred direction. The trail has some really interesting spots where the path is worn into the rock. These trenches were worn into the soft volcanic rock from the people living here for hundreds of years.

Ledge After Ladder


Well Worn Paths

There are also a few sections where the path goes between two boulders making for a tight fit. Not all visitors will be able to squeeze through some of the spots. As we proceed up in elevation, the distance views improve. One section of town with lots of large building must be part of the Los Alamos National Laboratory.

Narrow Squeeze

View to the South

Likely Los Alamos National Lab Buildings

When we finally make it to the top of the mesa, we start to have views to the north as well. From here we can see some of the old adobe structures on the valley floor below. There are no trails into this part of the park so this will be the best view we get.

View to North

Adobe Ruins

Continuing east along the ridge, we come to a spur trail that leads out to the Tsankawi Pueblo. Of course it is closed as the park service is doing some sort of rehabilitation program and has bag full of some of the adobe bricks from the buildings. It isn’t clear if they are going to be reused in the restoration or simply being stored.

Bags of Adobe

Bright Cactus Blooms

The trail then cuts back to the south and follows along the southern edge of the mesa. From here we get a much better view of some of the trails below. The ledge we came across after climbing the ladder has some rather major openings beneath it. There is a long section of trench that we will get to on our return trip. There is another area where the the rock is worn in more like footsteps going up a slope instead of a trench.

Seeing Openings Beneath Trail

More Worn Trail

More Worn Footholds

When we reach the far end of the loop, there is another ladder we must descend. That wouldn’t have been too bad but to reach the ladder, there is one of those very narrow trenches. It takes a bit of coordination to move your feet without tripping when they are constrained by a 6 inch wide groove. Have a slip here could be disastrous. I go first to prove to Chris it can be done and she cautiously follows without incident.

Trench Leads to Ladder

Chris Makes Her Way Down

There are more narrow foot trenches to walk through but along this lower section, there are several of the “rooms” to look in.

Pretty Obvious Trail

Inside Room


We find several petroglyphs carved into the rock as well as a few shards of broken pottery sitting around.

Petroglyph


As we work back towards the parking lot, there are several groups of other visitors arriving. Fortunately we crossed paths with them at wider sections of the trail. If this place is full of people, it seems like passing one another could be a challenge. We make it back to the parking lot just before 10 AM and it is starting to fill up with cars. Several groups were starting out - I wish them luck. This was an interesting place to check out. I wouldn’t consider it a hike but more like a walk through history.


Another Group Heads Up

Our plans for the rest of the day were to drive into Española to try out a farmers market and then go have lunch at a popular Mexican restaurant. It’s about a 20 minute drive to the farmers market and while Chris wanders through the vendors, I walk down the street to find a geocache at a small campus of Northern New Mexico College. When I get back to the market, Chris is waiting empty handed. So the farmers market was a bust. It was way too early for lunch but we weren’t seeing much to do elsewhere in town. I remembered the drive along the river a couple days ago was pretty and there were numerous pullouts, surely there must be some geocaches along there. We check and find there are a couple near the County Line Rio Grande Gorge boat launch. It’s about a 20 mile drive which should kill just enough time to bring us to lunchtime when we arrive back in Española.

Being a Monday morning the place wasn’t too busy. There were no buses waiting for rafters like we had seen on our drive by but it was still a pretty place and got us down to water level.

Rio Grande River Up Close

Based on our maps, the geocaches were down a trail along the river. As we headed in that direction, we discovered that the “trail” was more like a path the fishermen periodically use to get to other spots along the river. We weren’t really dressed for this type of a walk, but we managed to find the first cache without issue. The next one was down the trail maybe a quarter mile so we continued on only to realize that it it was well up the gorge wall along this part of the river about 130 feet above us. We probably should have turned back and headed for lunch, but we are persistent at times so we found a bit of a wash heading up that looked possible. A couple of old cars were abandoned at the base of the climb.

Old Abandoned Cars

It was challenging without our normal gear, but we made it up, found the cache and had a great view. We saw a pullout on the road that had a path leading up to this cache. We definitely took a more challenging approach! We knew coming back down the same way was going to be impossible without slipping. We had enough cell coverage to check out the aerial view and realize that there might be a better route back down to the trail back to the car.

Nice View from Up High


There were lots of sketchy spots and we came close to sliding down but made it back safely and staying clean enough to go into La Cocina New Mexican Restaurant. The place was packed, especially for a Monday at lunch. But we didn’t have to wait long for a seat and the food was excellent. We are becoming accustomed to the waitress asking “red or green sauce?” whenever we order. Our choice is green.

The next day we opt for a planned hike but we don’t intend to leave town and head into the mountains. The topography of Los Alamos is very unique. It sits on a large mesa with mountains to the west and a valley to the east. But instead of being a large flat mesa that drops off into the valley below, there are numerous canyons that have been carved out over the millennia, all running in a general east to west orientation. These are not just minor ditches but in the order of 400 to 600 feet deep. With this type of terrain, there is a good portion of the town’s area that isn’t capable one being developed for homes - thus the housing issue I mentioned earlier. But these canyons have been developed for recreation with all sorts of trails that run down, through and up them.

Google Earth View of Los Alamos' Canyons

With all the canyons and trails, there are almost too many to choose from. We pick one from AllTrails that uses a series of trails to make a 3 mile loop. The Acid Canyon, South and North Pueblo Bench, and Ranch School is a rather long name but sounded like a local favorite. Even though it drops into two different canyons, we are at the western edge of them so they aren’t all that deep - the whole trail will be about 400 foot elevation gain. We could easily have walked from the Elks Lodge to the trailhead but that would have added one mile each way. Instead we drive to the Aquatic Center parking lot and pick up the trail in Kinnikinnik Park. We didn’t go more than a quarter mile before we realized we had missed a turn for our intended hike and ended up at some event at the Los Alamos Nature Center. We backtracked and got back on our trail.

Kinnikinnik Park


Inadvertent Stop at Nature Center

It was definitely a pretty hike with some steep sections as we drop down into Acid Canyon. It doesn’t take long before getting into the canyon that it seems likes we are in the middle of nowhere instead of surrounded by a town with over 13,000 residents. There will be a few pedestrian bridges that take us over the deeper part of Acid Canyon.

Heading Down into Acid Canyon

Bridge Over Deep Part of Canyon


Walking along the rim of Pueblo Canyon is possibly the prettiest section with an amazing sheer cliff walls into the water below.


Looking Across Pueblo Canyon


The bridge over this canyon is much more substantial which is good since it’s a long ways down. There is a gas line suspended over the canyon less than 100 feet to the west.

Major Bridge Over Pueblo Canyon

View from Bridge

On the opposite side of the canyon we slowly descent to nearly water level and cross back over a smaller bridge. We have several geocaches to look for along the hike today and one of them was up the side of the canyon hidden in some huge boulders. It was a bit of a challenge to get up there but we eventually found it.

Smaller Bridge at Opposite End of Canyon

Small Butterfly on Pink Flower

Head Up There for Geocache

About a half mile from the end of the hike, the trail comes up into a residential neighborhood and we need to follow the street for a few blocks before finding the trail heading back into Acid Canyon. With our geocaching detours, the hike came in at 3.3 miles and 550 feet of elevation gain. But by getting an early start, we beat the worst of the heat and were back to the rig for lunch.


By mid afternoon, we decide to head over to one of the museums in Los Alamos. The Bradbury Science Museum is part of the National Laboratory so it is quite well done and informative. It’s even free!

Bradbury Science Museum

There are lots of displays on all things associated with the Manhattan Project and the laboratory in general. We had recently rewatched the movie Oppenheimer to refresh our memory so it was neat to have that in our minds as we wandered the various rooms.

Oppenheimer in All White

There were a large number of interactive displays where you could better understand some of the complex physics behind the project. We spent over 90 minutes and only did a small fraction of the hands on displays. It’s very well done and the price is right. We’re only halfway through our weeklong stay but have seen so much and enjoyed Los Alamos.

Lots to Learn Here

Life Size Replicas of Bombs Dropped on Japan