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Coming out of Amarillo Texas, we continue west on I-40 heading to New Mexico. We have plans to spend over 6 weeks in the state. Our first reservation isn’t for 3 nights and the plan is to split those between two different Elks Lodges - Tucumcari and Las Vegas (NM not NV). It’s only 109 miles to the Tucumcari Elks Lodge. We fit in 3 stops along the drive to find geocaches in three more counties. We pulled into the Tucumcari lodge and were surprised to see 5 other rigs already there. Fortunately there are a few more spots so we will be able to have electricity. We hadn’t found a whole lot to do here or in Las Vegas to help decide where to spend our extra night. I realized that there were 3 more counties to the south that we haven’t found caches in and it didn’t seem like an area we would ever have a reason to visit in the future. With that in mind, I talked Chris into spending 2 nights in Tucumcari so we could make the drive to pick up the extra counties tomorrow.
After the lodge opened, we headed into the bar to register and pay for our camping site. We chatted with a couple of other traveling Elk while enjoying a beer and then headed back to the rig to have dinner. Tucumcari is on Route 66 and apparently has some great old neon signs at some of the businesses in downtown. As the sun set, a storm was approaching but it didn’t look like it would be here too soon, so we head downtown to see what the lights were like. We had a map with the popular spots to check out. I was somewhat surprised to find there were probably a few dozen other people with the same idea.
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| The Blue Swallow Motel on Route 66 |
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| Tepee Curios |
We were able to park in one location and with a bit of walking, make it to most of the places. In the distance we could see the sky light up with the lightening but the storm was keeping its distance.
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| Roadrunner Lodge |
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| Americana Motel |
I’m glad we were able to do this visit at night with the lights on instead of just during the day.
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| La Cita Mexican Foods |
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| Back to the Blue Swallow |
The last business to checkout was over a mile down the road so we decide to drive in case the storm actually moved in closer. It turns out the storm stayed away but at the last business we drove to wasn’t even open so no lights there. Since the storm passed us by, we had a quiet night at the lodge.
I picked a couple of geocaches in each of the three counties and came up with a route and strategy for the drive. Chris looked at where I was planning to go and decided to stay home instead of doing a 120 mile drive in what looked to be a completely desolate part of New Mexico. It actually was a fairly interesting drive simply from the terrain. The initial 25 miles was definitely generally flat, desert terrain with the occasional outcropping of rock. If the fields were being used, it was just by ranchers for their cattle. As I continued south, I could see what appeared to be a huge cliff jutting out of the landscape for dozens of miles to the east and west. It wasn’t at all clear from a distance how the road I was on would get up the cliff but it curved a bit and climbed over 600 feet. On top of the plateau, the landscape was completely different. The land was almost perfectly flat and it was clear this area was being used to grow crops. It wasn’t clear what is grown here.
My first stop was the town of Melrose along US Route 60. This is a rather busy east/west thoroughfare which was dramatically different from the earlier part of my drive.
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| Melrose Mural |
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| Fighter Jet in Melrose Park |
From here I head west to pick up the other two counties. They brought me to some interesting old buildings. There is the much larger town of Fort Sumner just a bit further west and it looked like there might be some places to see here, but I still had a rather long and deserted drive back to Tucumcari so I stuck to my original plan.
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| Vacant Building |
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| Former Church with Geocache Behind It |
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| Inside Old Church Without Grafitti |
By the time I got back, our rig was the only one in the camping area. Several of the rigs last night must have been a group traveling together. I had seen an add on Facebook for a food truck at the local Tractor Supply Store serving fish fry. That’s not the type of food we expected to find in New Mexico but we gave it a shot and found it to be rather good. Maybe it was run by transplanted Midwesterners? The next day was the drive to the Las Vegas Elks Lodge. We have stayed here for one night before but it was in the fall of 2020 during the heart of COVID. The lodge was closed but the 4 camping spots were open. It’s only 82 miles to the lodge and this time we found one other rig in a site when we got there. Based on the large auxiliary propane tank sitting next to the motorhome and all sorts of things sitting outside the rig, it looks like this person has been here for quite some time. Given we are now at an elevation of 6500 feet, I suspect the winters might be a bit cold here.
We head into the bar to register and pay. They had typical bar food available but we had heard there is a great Mexican restaurant within walking distance of the lodge so that sounded like the better option for dinner. Sure enough, the front door was less than 100 feet from our rig. There is a fence in the way so we had to walk nearly 400 feet to get there! Kocina de Raphael was definitely an authentic Mexican place. It was fairly busy inside but we discovered they did a much bigger take out or drive through service than those who eat in. We really enjoyed our meal which is likely going to be the first of many over the next few weeks.
The next day we will head up to Taos for a 2 week stay at a private campground just outside of downtown. We have a bit of a routing dilemma. The most direct route is north on State Route 518 which then cuts up and over the Taos Mountains. It looks to be a rather curving road which gets up to 9450 feet in elevation. The alternate route is along Interstate 25 west into Santa Fe and then north into Taos. This route is less curvy and crosses the mountains at 2000 feet lower but is much longer at 145 miles. We did a bit of research and found that the route up and over the mountains would be fine as long as there isn’t snow - not much chance of that with the heat we’ve been experiencing in early June. We head out Saturday morning for Taos. It was a beautiful drive and not at all difficult. The engine temperature rose a little during the climbs but the motorhome did fine too. I expected to have a line of cars behind me which would force me to pull over at times to let them pass, but the traffic was rather light. We pulled over once near the beginning of the climbing simply to check the car was still properly attached and then again at a large pullout with a beautiful view.
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| Viewpoint Along State Route 518 |
We pulled in to Monte Bello RV Park early afternoon and got setup for our 2 weeks. This campground is about a 6 mile drive to downtown Taos and is rather small with only about 20 to 25 sites. But it does have great views of the mountains. The one odd thing about this park is they charge for electricity even though we will only be here 2 weeks. Our typical experience has been that places only do that for stays over a month. We decide to put our solar panels and lithium batteries to work and setup to run all the kitchen appliances off of battery power but still be able to use the washer and dryer or air conditioner from shore power as needed. This should reduce our power usage and we’ll be a good test of the system.
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| Our Home for 2 Weeks Outside Taos NM |
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| Panoramic View of Mountains Behind Motorhome |
Having had a rather short travel day and it still being fairly early, we head out to explore a nearby attraction. The Rio Grande Gorge Bridge is just about 5 miles west of camp. There is a rest area on the far side of the bridge and a few trails to view points of the bridge from the side. It is an impressive gorge dropping 600 feet to the river below. There is a sidewalk on either side of the road with a few viewing platforms jutting out to improve the view but the bridge is closed to all pedestrians. We would later find out that nine months ago they had a dramatic increase in the number of suicides and have closed the sidewalks. There was even a vehicle parked along the side of the road just west of the bridge every time we drove by to visit a place to the west of camp. I suspect this is some sort of mental health professional available if the need arises.
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| Gorge Bridge View |
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| Looking Downstream |
There were quite a few vendors setup in the rest area selling jewelry, rugs and other native crafts. There are trails that follow the rim of the gorge to the south and we have a geocache to find about half a mile in that direction. Most visitors get their look of the bridge from near the parking lot. A few more will venture out maybe a quarter mile to get a different perspective, but beyond that, most people turn back.
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| Cactus in Bloom |
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| Chris Follows the Trail |
This is a rather desolate landscape with some cactus and a few smaller shrubs and bushes but there isn’t a great deal of life although we did spot a cool looking lizard along our walk. Since the rim of the gorge isn’t a straight line, the view back towards the bridge or downstream keeps changing so even after finding the cache, we continue south.
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| An Even More Distant View |
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| Eastern Collared Lizard |
We ended up going nearly 1.5 miles before turning back. The trail seems to go on indefinitely but we were getting hungry for dinner. On the way back we noticed something unusual just to the west of the rim, so we head over to investigate. From a distance it looked to be some small flags blowing in the wind. As we got closer, we saw there was also a series of rocks forming a spiral on the ground. Based on the writing on the small flags and the items at the center of the labyrinth, it seems like this may be some sort of makeshift Buddhist prayer spot.
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| Buddhist Prayer Spot |
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| Stone Spiral |
The following day, we drive into downtown Taos to walk around and check out some of the shops. Being a Sunday, there were a lot of visitors doing the same thing.
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| Lifesize Bison Art |
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| Nice Mural |
One of the first shops we stopped in was a sporting goods store. As we looked around, I spotted a pair of hiking boots in my size in the clearance rack. I wasn’t really in need of another pair, but these are a brand and style that I typically wear and they were 50% off. I tried them on a decided I would get them as spare boots. There was also another pair of hiking shoes in my size with the same discount. Chris and I have a pretty good collection of hiking gear under our sofa. It was all found at various points in our travels for greatly discounted prices. But with the addition of these two pairs, I am told I cannot get any more regardless of the price!
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| Beautiful Adobe Buildings |
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| Nice Stonework Too |
We spent a couple hours checking out more shops and admiring the beautiful architecture of Taos. We ended up picking a place to have lunch. Michael’s Kitchen and Bakery had good reviews. We weren’t the only ones with this plan either, but we only had a 20 minute wait before being seated. It was an excellent meal.


Our campsite is at an elevation of 7150 feet and I’m sure our bodies are still acclimating to the higher elevations since we’ve only been above 3000 for the past week prior to arriving in Taos. The high desert is quite interesting from a weather standpoint. Even though it might get close to 90 degrees some days, it tends to cool off very well overnight. In fact there are nights where we need to close windows because it was getting too cold inside the rig. It also seems like every afternoon the winds will pick up. Not just light breeze type winds but strong gusty winds in the 20 to 50 MPH range. We saw one camper’s slide top awning being blown and one day the wind direction was lined up with our motorhome such that our slide topper sounded like it might be shredded and so we simply pulled the slide in for a few hours until the winds died down. One time the winds were so strong that it created a big dust storm that made the mountains 6 miles away nearly disappear from the dust in the air.
On our first Monday in town we take a day trip to Angel Fire New Mexico. It’s a little under and hour drive east of camp. This is a pretty interesting town. It is located at the southern end of a valley further up in the mountains and sits about 1400 feet higher than our campground. There is a ski resort there with lots of trails. During the summer months, it is very popular with downhill mountain bikers. But there are also some hiking trails. Visitors may hike the Enlightenment Trail for free. It is a little over 10 miles out and back but comes with a steep cost of over 2100 feet of elevation gain. Plus it starts at 8600 feet and climbs to over 10,600 feet. While we may have adjusted somewhat to the higher elevation of Taos, I don’t think we are ready for this.
The alternative we went with was to pay for a day pass on the chair lift so we can do the trail in the downhill direction. Tickets go for $26 per person but we think it will be worth it to make it to the top with minimal effort. We arrive in the large parking lot with just a few other cars. The first chair lift we see was clearly not running and didn’t even seem to be complete. Fortunately this was a new, larger lift they are constructing to be opened for the upcoming winter season. The one we want is hidden behind some of the many buildings that have other services like restaurants, bars and rental places. Being a Monday morning in the summer most of the facilities were closed. We signed the waiver forms and bought our lift wristbands that will allow us on the chair lift as often as we want. This pricing model works much better for the mountain bikers than hikers, but that was the only choice. We walk over to the lift and are given instructions on how to get on and get off.
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| Our Lift to the Summit |
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| On the Way Up |
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| Much Steeper Near the Summit |
We checked out a few of the views from up top and went over to get a picture with the bears. There was also a geocache hidden up here over 20 years ago now. We had looked at previous finder’s logs over the years and saw that this one was in very bad disrepair. The Tupperware container had started to deteriorate and was a mess. We checked and saw the cache owner had dropped out of caching a year after placing this one so they weren’t going to perform the required maintenance. We had a spare container with us in the rig, so we had brought it along for the ride to the top. There wasn’t much of the old cache to salvage but we were able to clean up all the old pieces of plastic, replace with a new container and logbook before heading over to the trailhead for the Enlightenment Trail.
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| At The Top |
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| Hiking Trail This Way |
The trail starts on the south side of the chair lift but only does that for a quarter mile or so before crossing underneath the lift and will proceed down the rest of the way on the north side.
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| Bicycles on Way Up ... |
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| ... Followed by the Riders |
A large portion of the hike is in the shade of the huge pines but occasionally there are openings that provide for excellent mountain views.
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| View from Trail |
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| View of Trail |
The trail has plenty of switchbacks to keep the grade manageable. There were some rocky parts while the wooded sections tended to be covered in leaves and pine needles. There was one stretch that must get more water from runoff or a seep, and this area was quite lush with lots of wildflowers in bloom.
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| Raven |
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| Mountain Bluebells |
We were plenty of shady places with fallen trees to use as benches for a snack.
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| Columbine |
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| Indian Paintbrush |
With so many different downhill mountain biking trails, we come across them from time to time. At no point do they share the same path since that could be a safety nightmare. Occasionally we would hear cyclists holler to one another from a distance but we never saw them up close. The one trail crossing has a bridge for the cyclists to cross over our trail and it looked like it would be neat to see a rider to go up and over. We waited for a few minutes but there weren’t a lot of riders so we didn’t get to see them go over.
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| Bike Trail Crosses Over Hiking Trail |
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| Bike and Hiking Trails Side by Side |
We came across a few people hiking up the trail but not many. We got back to the car for lunch, and had gotten in 6 miles and a minimal 350 feet up elevation gain to go along with the 2000 foot descent. After eating, we switched gears and headed back to the lift to go up again but this time just to get a better look around the summit. Part of it may have been to feel like our lift tickets had more value by going up a second time.
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| Pond Crossing |
There are definitely some pretty views up here. We grabbed a beer at the Summit Haus and sat on the deck enjoying the beauty of Angel Fire. The only complaint is they had the music system cranked so loud that it was impossible to talk and for certain songs with a lot of bass, the whole deck seemed to shake. Not sure if the architect had designed for continued shaking all day long. The good news was the songs were all one we knew.
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| View from Summit Haus Deck |
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| Ski Patrol in Summertime |
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| View of Valley Below |
We finish up and head back over to the chair lift. I’m guessing they don’t have a lot of people riding back down since the majority of the visitors here are bikers. There are some great views of the valley from up here on the way down. We even spotted a biker or two making their descent.
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| Heading Back Down |
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| Cyclist Descends |
We made it safely off the lift and headed back to the car for the hour drive back home. It was a fun way to spend 6 hours in the mountains.
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| In the Home Stretch |
The next day we had some of the most severe winds we’ve seen here. Our bodies were a little tired so we took a day off before heading out for another hike the following day. The Slide Trail is a fairly popular hike to the southwest of Taos. On our way to the trailhead, we stop at an historic church - San Francisco de Asis Church in Rancho de Taos. Built in the early 1800’s it’s a beautiful adobe style building set in a fairly residential area.
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| Wall of Home Next to Church |
We arrive to the parking area to find it quite full with cars. We didn’t expect that for a Wednesday morning. We walk around to the front entrance to check out the grounds.
As we approached the front door to see inside, we realized there was a funeral mass in progress. That would explain the large number of cars. It also kept us from going inside.
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| Restaurant Across Street from Church |
The Slide Trail is a 2.7 mile out and back hike with 550 feet of elevation gain. It follows part of an old road (NM 570) that experienced a rockslide in 1993. It was determined that clearing the debris was not worth the effort to reopen the road but it has now been turned into a hiking trail. There are two trailhead options - the lower and upper. Generally we would prefer to start the hike low and have the climb at the beginning of the hike. However, getting to the lower trailhead from Taos is a much longer drive since you must get on the other side of the Rio Grande River and there aren’t all that many bridges over the river. Since the trail used to be a road, we knew it wasn’t going to be too steep so we opted for the easier drive to the upper trailhead. When we start to follow the signs, the terrain didn’t look all that interesting but in several hundred feet, we begin to see what we are heading towards.
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| Beginning of Slide Trail |
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| First View of Gorge |
Our timing was reasonably good in that doing this in the early morning, much of the trail is in the shade of the huge cliff walls. As we continue down, it is very easy to see where the trail (former road) is. We are following the Taos Pueblo River as it heads into the Rio Grande River. At the start of the hike, this smaller tributary is about 250 feet below us but the trail will descend faster than the river so we will eventually get to 20 feet above the water.
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| Trail Visible Along Gorge Wall |
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| Taos Pueblo River Below |
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| Apache Plume in Bloom and Featherlike Seed Heads |
We have one geocache to look for on our way down. Of course, we run into another hiking group just as we were looking for the hide. We started to talk with them and discovered that one of them has a daughter that lives in Rochester NY - what a small world.
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| Huge Culvert Found While Looking for Geocache |
We get to a point on the trail where it gets quite narrow. We suspect this is the location of “the slide”. The vegetation has grown so much here that it was like going into a green tunnel for 50 feet or so.
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| At Slide Location |
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| Dragonfly |
We finally make it to the lower trailhead and find a car parked so we know roads do reach this spot. Technically this is where the trail stops, but we were curious what else was in this part of the canyon. We found a faint path that got us to the water level of the smaller river.
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| At Lower Trailhead |
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| At Water Level of Taos Pueblo River |
We were feeling good enough and knew the hike back up wasn’t going to be too challenging so we continue down the dirt road to see what we could find. There is a small camping area and even a camp host. It was about a half mile to the Taos Bridge which crosses the Rio Grande. There is a large parking area as well as a boat ramp. Not sure if this is a launch point for river rafting or simple pleasure boating and fishing. From here, the remainder of Route 570 follows the edge of the river while another road heads up the western side of the gorge wall climbing over 800 feet in about 1.5 miles.
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| At Water Level of Rio Grande River |
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| Taos Bridge Over Rio Grande |
After a little bit, we decide we need to make the hike back up to the car. We saw some more of the salt cedar in bloom that we had seen a week ago in Texas. As we approached the area of the slide from below, it was a bit more apparent.
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| Salt Cedar Blooms |
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| Approaching "Slide" from Below |
Of course, being later in the morning, we had lost much of the shade from the gorge walls but it still wasn’t too hot. With our side trips, the hike ended up being 3.5 miles and 700 feet of elevation. But in all it was a very pretty hike.
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| Cactus Bloom |
While writing this post, I got to thinking about the imagery in Google Earth. Would if possibly have aerial views from before and after the slide since this didn’t take place all that long ago. Sure enough I found imagery dates of September 1991 and October 1997. I positioned the viewpoint to be looking up the canyon. It’s pretty obvious where the slide was even though the resolution wasn’t all that great 30 years ago.
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| Aerial View of Gorge Before |
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| Aerial View of Gorge After |