A Week in Massena

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We’re heading back to a spot we had stayed at 6 years ago. Robert Moses State Park is in Massena New York, right along the St Lawrence River. When reserving a site for this state park, make sure you have selected the park that is in Massena rather than Long Island. It’s still unclear why the state couldn’t come up with unique names for these state parks that are over 400 miles apart. There are two distinct camping areas: Long Sault and Barnhart Island. This time, we opted for a spot on the latter. We are hoping it won’t be quite so crazy as our last visit which occurred over the July 4th holiday weekend. Access to the park is rather unique in that you drive through a tunnel that actually goes right underneath the Eisenhower Lock. It has 13’ 6” clearance so we have no problem but it is a bit disconcerting when you see a 600 foot long freighter passing overhead as you drive underneath. 

Tunnel Beneath Lock with Ship Passing Through

Bridge to Barnhart Island

Looking Beyond Bridge

We Camped Within 1/4 Mile of 45th Parallel

The place isn’t very full when we first come in and the sites are fairly spacious. For most of our time here, people aren’t in the neighboring sites to ours. The stay is definitely more relaxed than our past visit. The beach area isn’t far away either. It’s a quick bike ride or only slightly longer walk to get there. We do figure out what website to use to know the schedule of big ships coming through the Eisenhower Lock. We make it back there a few times during our week long stay in the park. The whole process is fascinating to me although it all takes place at a pretty slow pace. It only takes about 7 or 8 minutes to fill or empty the lock, but the ships coming in are moving at what seems like a snail’s pace. There is a visitor center and viewing building with a few levels to people can watch the lock in operation. 

Multi-Level Visitor Center

Empty Lock Waiting for Upbound Ship

The Algowood Enters the Lock

Being Raised

Impressive Ship

The Algowood Heads Out

There are 7 locks along the St Lawrence River between Montreal and Lake Ontario. Each can handle a ship as large as 740 feet in length and 78 feet in width. A few of the ships we saw seemed to use up nearly all the usable space. A small crew of men working the lock control the whole operation including working with a larger crew of men on the ship in charge of controlling the 4 lines used to hold the boat against the dock during the fill/empty stage. It would be interesting to be on board one of these large freighters during a crossing from the Atlantic Ocean to Lake Superior. (As long as the ship’s name wasn’t the Edmund Fitzgerald - did this get that song stuck in your head?)

The Federal Baltic Heads Out Downbound

This One is on the "Small" Side 

Intricate Rope System as Ship is Raised

We headed into Canada for a bike ride and some sightseeing on one of the nicer days in the area. There is a border crossing about a 12 mile drive from the campground that takes us into Cornwall Ontario. The crossing seemed a bit odd because we crossed over one bridge onto Cornwall Island which is part of Canada yet there wasn’t any fee or border agents involved. It wasn’t until a bit later that we get to pay the $3 fee to cross the bridge and then go through customs. We then head a bit north east of town to a trail called the Peanut Line. Probably an old rail line now converted to a gravel trail. There are dozens of geocaches places along the trail which was the main draw for us. It’s not a busy trail at least on the Wednesday we were there. We parked along a side road and biked several miles out before getting hungry and turning back to the car. The original plan to eat and then head the opposite direction was ditched and instead we drove into town to find a more scenic spot to have lunch. The trail was fine and the caches were good, but the bugs were very bad and we decided enough was enough.

Looking Down the Peanut Line

Farm Next to Peanut Line

We found the perfect spot. Lamoureux Park is situated right along the waterfront of the St Lawrence River. A spot overlooking the marina worked well for our lunch. There is a paved bike path that runs in both directions along the water. We bike a couple kilometers in each direction to see what the area is like. This trail was much busier but it was still pleasant. When we headed west, we got to see some of the old channels and locks that are now obsolete with the massive ones now controlling the water level and flow. 

Old Gears 

Marina in Cornwall Ontario

We did have our fair share of rain while we were here. This year isn’t anything like last year where rain was scarce. We didn’t have a washout but it did prompt us to modify our plans occasionally. One nice afternoon we drove west along the roads closest to the river. I had brought along my new 200-500 mm lens and had an opportunity to use it at one geocache stop. The parking area for the nature walk has a tall pole with platform on top. An osprey had made its nest up there and was quite vocal while we were standing below watching it. We only ever saw the one adult so it’s not clear if there were any young present, but I suspect not. 

Osprey Perched Above Nest

Giving Us the Evil Eye

Soaring Above

Searching for Prey

We made it into downtown Massena to do a little bit of caching. The parts we saw had numerous buildings for sale - mostly business that are now closed. From the looks of things, the town could stand a bit of a revival. On another day we drove down to Potsdam mainly to use the library. It’s a college town with both Clarkson University and SUNY Potsdam situated on opposite sides of the Raquette River. Although we did minimal exploration in Potsdam, we did stumble across something that we don’t see everyday. In the side yard of a home was a display of dozens of toilets! They were tastefully decorated but did make us wonder “Why?” Turns out the owner had some disagreement with the town and in protest made a display of toilets. Definitely glad we don’t have him as a neighbor. 

Odd Lawn Decorations

Open Air Restroom?

It didn’t seem like we accomplished much while we were here for the week. Admittedly there doesn’t seem to be a ton of stuff to do in the area. Of course, if we were like many of the others that come here, we would have brought a power boat to enjoy the river. During the one weekend we were here, the campground did get full and we had neighbors in the closest sites. One of them was a couple with a travel trailer and two children maybe about 8 and 10. We were simply amazed at how much stuff they brought along with them for a couple night stay. Hammocks, a tent, bikes, toys galore, tables and chairs - lets just say when they weren’t lacking anything. Of course, the heavy rain that was expected Sunday morning came and we got to watch them try to pack everything up during the downpour. Such is the life of weekenders as we call them. Next stop Vermont.

Eastern Lake Ontario

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After our extended stay in the Rochester area, we head east and north to Henderson Bay on the eastern end of Lake Ontario. The drive from the west side of Rochester takes us right along NY Route 104 (Ridge Road). This leads us right past our old workplace of Eastman Kodak Company. It looks quite different even from several years ago when I finished up my 32 years with the company. I started my career in building 69 back in 1980. This building would have been visible from our drive if it hadn’t been imploded back in 2007. In those early years, I would have never dreamed that I would one day drive past here as a traveling nomad. 

Our destination is a little bit remote since the campground is is situated on an island. The 1000 Island/Association Island Campground actually encompasses the full island - all 60 acres. It stick out into the lake and helps to form Henderson Bay. It’s strange driving on such a narrow road with water on both sides. It also seems to be quite windy here probably since it is so exposed to the open waters. Our campsite is a pull in rather than a back in. But it is up above the rigs in front of us and provides for a nice view of the lake and sunsets.  There is a nice marina that’s part of the island permitting those campers with boats to have a place to dock when they return from their boat rides.

Spooky Building Adjacent to Our Campsite

Rain was predicted for our first day here but figured we would risk it and go for a bike ride. The roads we picked have very little traffic so it was a pleasant ride of about 7 miles down to an old lighthouse that is a private residence now. On the way back, we swing by Robert Wehle State Park. It is one of the newer parks in NY, opening in 2004. We biked around some of the park before we stopped for a break and noticed the ominous clouds forming to the north - right where our campground is. Of course we had left all the windows open in the rig since we didn’t see any real indication of rain when we left. We agreed to split up so I could hopefully bike back more quickly and close things up. In the 20 minutes it took to get back the wind had picked up and sprinkles were just starting. Chris made it back several minutes later just before the skies opened up. 

Lighthouse - Now Private Residence

By the next day the front had passed and the weather was wonderful. We decided to head north to Alexandria Bay along the St Lawrence River in the 1000 Islands region of New York. Our final destination there would be Boldt Castle but first we headed to Cranberry Creek Wildlife Management Area. Yet another of those little, out of the way places that many people would drive by and never realize it's there. A geocache hidden there along with some pictures other geocachers had posted made it look like a great spot to stop for lunch before heading to the castle. A battle during the War of 1812 took place here and there are several headstones in a small gravesite for the lives lost. There isn’t a picnic table, but the bench provided a nice spot to stop and eat while enjoying the scenery.

View at Cranberry Creek

More of Cranberry Creek

After lunch we head to the office for Uncle Sam Boat Tours. Boldt Castle is actually on one of the islands about 1/3 mile from Alexandria Bay. It is possible to take your own boat to Heart Island since they have a dock as part of the 7 acre island. Not having a kayak, we opt for the tour boat ride. With castle admission included, it costs us $19 apiece. Since it is a very short trip, the tour shuttle boat makes the trip rather frequently so it’s not a very long wait to board. With the dock on the north side of the island, we do get to see the buildings from the boat as we approach and the place is pretty impressive looking. Apparently the main castle is six stories tall and over 40,000 square feet! There are two other buildings on site. The Power House and Alster Tower are on the northeast and southwest ends of the island respectively. 

One of the Tour Boats

Alster Tower

Power House

 

Alster Tower (foreground), Boldt Castle above Trees

We got off the shuttle boat and entered the castle grounds and immediately started to wander the pathways through all the beautiful gardens to check out the everything else before entering the castle itself. For what it’s worth, I would suggest visitors first enter the castle and view the 15 minute video on the history of the island. It will put all of what you see as you tour in much better context. 

Truly a Castle

Smaller Outbuilding

Power House

Power House Again

Front of Boldt Castle

The brief story how this place came to be is both impressive and quite sad at the same time. George Boldt was a wealthy man from New York City and came to love this portion of the 1000 Islands. He bought the island and in 1900 started the construction of the castle, and other buildings including a yacht house not far away from Heart Island. It was to be a gift to his wife. In 1904 when the house was nearing completion, George’s wife died and he had all construction stop and was said to have never returned to the island. For over 70 years, the home was visited by thousands of people, many of them vandalized the building. Plus the harsh weather conditions, especially in the winter, caused all sorts of damage. In 1977, the Thousand Island Bridge Authority purchased the property and now charges visitors a fee to enter and has been restoring the property every since.

One of the Many Rooms Yet to be Restored

Inside Alster Tower

Ornate Room

Dinner for 18!

Big Kitchen Needed to Cook for 18

Dancing Room?

The main entry of the castle has a stained glass dome high overhead. We just assumed the dome was part of the outer roof. But after exploring some of the upper floors, we discover the dome is actually inside of the building with a glass roof overhead. Alster Tower was built as a playhouse for the children. Much of it still needs a fair amount of work to restore it. If you ever find yourself in the area, a trip to Boldt Castle should be high on your list. As the years go on, more and more of the rooms will get restored although I suspect it will take years if not decades to get the buildings to the intended level of quality. We catch one of the boats back to Alex Bay and do a little bit of touring the area before driving back to our campground. 

Stained Glass Dome from Inside

At Dome Level from Inside

An Upstairs Room Needing TLC

Looking Out Upstairs Room

View from Water

A second nice day of weather prompts us to drive to Sackets Harbor with the bikes. Chris had found a 22 mile loop that sounded like it could work for us. Sackets Harbor is a cute little town. As we head north, we pass what used to be Madison Barracks, an army facility up through WWII. It is now a nice looking residential area. We eventually get up to the town of Dexter using mainly quiet side streets or busier streets with decent shoulders for riding. It was a fun ride but not particularly scenic but we did manage to find a few geocaches along the way. I even found a wallet along the side of a country road and managed to locate the proper owner. 

Black Pond Wildlife Management Area was a short drive from the campground. There were far more cars than I was anticipating for such an out of the way location. We follow the boardwalk hoping to see some sort of interesting wildlife but didn’t find any during our walk. We eventually make it out to what is the likely draw for most people coming here - a nice sandy beach area. This explained the number of cars. I suspect even more people show up on weekends.

Along Boardwalk at Black Pond

There are only so many things to see that are close to our camp, so we decided to head into Watertown to check out their zoo. It’s called New York State Zoo at Thompson Park. The name makes it sound much more impressive than it actually is, but it was still worth the visit. They don’t have a large number of animals but do have a mountain lion, lynx, black bear, and elk. We had two favorite stops. The butterfly house had a good number of them flying around and was enjoyable to just stand and watch them. A pair of them were doing an odd flight pattern that looked more like an aerial dog fight. Maybe it was a mating ritual? The other neat stop were the wolves. We hadn’t made our way over to their habitat yet we could hear a couple of them howling to each other. They attracted a large viewing audience during their performance. 

Turtles are Better at Posing for Photo

Snoozing

We also explored a bit of Thompson Park, mainly to find several geocaches. Some of the trails would be reasonable for mountain biking but that wasn’t  in the plans for the day. We still had some time prior to the expected rain to move in so we headed to Joseph Blake Nature Preserve just to the east of Watertown. There were nice trails but midway through the hike, we could sense the rain was imminent so we hustled back to the car and headed home. 

Our last day in the area took us to the El Dorado Beach Preserve. It took us a little bit to find the proper way to the trailhead parking lot, but once there we enjoyed the trail out to the water of Lake Ontario. Just to the south is the beach we had visited a couple days earlier. As expected, there were many people there on this nice Sunday afternoon. A side trail takes us to both a geocache and a photographer’s blind. The cache was found easily but the location of the blind seemed a bit odd. A large sand dune prevents line of sight to the actual shore where the shore birds might be? A short drive took us to Sandy Creek Community Park. There is a nice hiking and biking and ATV trail system here and we practically had the place to ourselves. 

Pretty Iris along El Dorado Trail

From Eldorado Trail Looking Back at Black Pond Beach

Sometimes our weeklong stays seem to be too short while others seem too long. This one felt just about right to see the nearby sights while enjoying a nice campground when we’re back at the rig. Next stop - Massena NY.