Tuesday, June 29, 2021

Our Fifth Year of Fulltiming in Review

It’s hard to believe our fifth year of traveling this great country has come to an end. A year ago we were holed up at an ownership resort in the mountains of eastern Arizona preparing for a summer in that hot state. The pandemic was raging and traveling had changed so much that the fun we normally had while moving around was greatly diminished and we decided to just stay put to see how things played out. Fast forward to now, we are on a private 1/2 acre lot just west of Asheville North Carolina near Great Smoky Mountain National Park. We are both fully vaccinated and things are beginning to look a bit more “normal”.

The intervening months between starting the summer in Arizona and starting the summer in North Carolina has definitely changed our travel philosophy. The pandemic caused us to slow down our travels and spend more time in spots. In some ways, what we are doing now is closer to what we might have naively thought full time travels would be like when we decided to bite the bullet and hit the road. From the beginning we knew to avoid falling into the trap of trying to see everything quickly. We didn’t want this to become a race to see for instance all the National Parks in a year or two. We set an arbitrary limit to how many miles we drive on any travel day (200 miles) to help slow the pace. We hoped this lifestyle would be a multiple year journey giving us time to more thoroughly explore areas of interest.

Back in 2016, we were consuming boatloads of information from others that had gone the full time route. It might be hard to learn from other people’s experiences and mistakes, but we could use this insight to formulate our own plan. We sold the house and nearly everything that wasn’t coming along. A few boxes of keepsake items are stored with family but we knew not to pay for storage to hang on to furniture, tools and clothing. Too many others have come back to their storage unit after a few years of paying $100 per month only to realize the things they kept didn’t hold much value.

Was our plan perfect? Probably not, but we are still enjoying this lifestyle and haven’t killed each other yet! In the past five years, we have run into quite a few others like us at RV rallies or just randomly at campgrounds. There is definitely no “one size fits all” strategy. We’ve seen people full timing in small travel trailers while others have been in larger motorhomes pulling a huge enclosed trailer with all the things they “must have” with them. Some people will plan to do this lifestyle for just a year or two after retirement to see the USA and then settle down again. But we know one couple that has been doing it for 25 years and show no signs of slowing down. Then there is the movie ‘Nomadland’ - good movie that highlights some places we have visited - but nothing like our full time life, thank goodness!

We never formulated a plan to try to define how long we would continue. Each winter, we decide the general direction we want to head for the warmer months. And each summer we decide where we will winter. We just have gone with the simple approach: if we are still enjoying our travels and are still healthy enough to do so, we will travel. We have covered much of the country but it’s clear there are always more places to see. Plus there are always the great places we have already seen and want to revisit so I doubt lack of destinations will get us to come off the road.

Year five started out partway thru our 4 month stay in Show Low Arizona. At the time, 4 months was our longest stop. While the area was a bit remote, it kept us out of harms way, allowed us to get in some nice hiking and mountain biking and had the added benefit of access to a very nice woodworking shop. By summer’s end, we had to decide where to spend the winter. We’ve spent 3 of our 4 winters in Arizona and prefer it’s climate and recreation opportunities more than other spots, but having spent 256 nights of 2020 in Arizona, we needed a change. We found a place in Brooksville Florida that likely only had availability because the border was closed and most Canadian snowbirds were unable to come down.

We took a rather unconventional route from Arizona to Florida and spent 5 weeks heading across the country before settling into Brooksville for 5 full months. It was a nice chance for us to get some chores done on the motorhome and visit with family in the area for the winter. One of the things we did was order new furniture for our rig. Our furniture is suffering from peeling fake leather. We ordered it just before Thanksgiving. While there was a chance it would arrive before our departure date in April, we opted to have it delivered to the supplier we are working with in Elkhart Indiana.

Our spring plans left April and May flexible and headed up to Ohio for my niece’s wedding with the expectation we could go to Indiana when the furniture arrived. COVID and the Texas snow storm caused delays in supplies and our furniture has yet to arrive. So after wandering Ohio somewhat aimlessly for 5 weeks staying at 4 different state parks along the way, we headed south for our destination in the mountains of western North Carolina where we will spend June thru the end of September. Hopefully by October we can head up to Indiana and get our furniture!

Enough rambling about year #5, let’s get to some of the facts and stats for the year. Below is a snapshot of our route from the Google Map I use to keep track of our stops. The link below the map will open up the actual Google Map and permit others to zoom in for more detail. For each stop, clicking on the pin will pop up a window with a link to the blog post(s) for that stop.


Like I have done in years past, I have created “heat maps” that shows in a shaded manner where we have camped. The first one just shows year #5 and the 15 states we have visited. The second map combines all 5 years into one map. The past year did add two more states (Kansas and Mississippi) bringing our total to 43 states we have camped in while fulltiming. 

Heat Map for Year #5

Heat Map for First 5 Years of Fulltime

How did year #5 compare to the prior years? The table below condenses the main travel data in one place. We decreased the number of stops we made by 20% compared to the prior year and is fewer than half of the stops in year #1. This drove our average number of nights per stop to nearly 17 nights. Whether we will maintain this slower travel place in the coming years remains to be seen. We do have plans to head back to Florida for 5 months this coming winter but have not even begun to plan our travels for next year.

Condensed Stats

Our motorhome miles went up slightly but this is mainly because we repositioned from west to east. It’s still much lower than our prior 4 year average. Our diesel cost dropped to 30 cents per mile partly because all of this year’s fuel stops have been using our TSD fuel card. Well over three quarters of our stops have been at private campgrounds but given our current travel style that’s to be expected. Stops at both Elks Lodges and boondocking also dropped this past year. This isn’t an indication of lack of interest in either of these, simply those options didn’t fit in as well with our travels on the eastern side of the country. We are pretty pleased with our average of about $26.50 per night for this past year. Our camping style has always been geared more to the general location of the campground rather than the amenities at the place. A state park with hiking opportunities appeals to us much more than a fancy RV resort with line dancing, pickle ball and bingo.

In the past reviews, we would list off the top few places we visited in the past year and give a brief description as well as a favorite picture from the stop. I was recently going over our previous blog posts and making a list of all the hikes we have done over the years and decided to mix it up a bit and describe our top hikes of the past year. I will still list the top locations but do so in the year end reviews. If I get ambitious, I might put out a special blog post listing the top hikes so far in our travels. In chronological order, here are the top 6 hikes in year #5 with a link to the blog post that gives more detail about the hike.

  • East Baldy Trail #95 - Greer AZ  We tackled this hike in late September in an attempt to beat the heat that had settled over Arizona during the summer of 2020. The trailhead is at an elevation of 9,400 feet and will reach nearly 11,000 feet if the full 11.7 mile hike is completed. We only did 8 miles getting up to 10,500 feet. It’s a very pretty hike with combinations of open meadows, thick mature woods and large rock outcroppings. If you’re into backpacking and tent camping, the full 16.5 mile loop would be an ideal 2 or 3 day trip. Blog post with East Baldy Hike
Spectacular View Along East Baldy Trail
  • Seven Bridges Trail - North Cheyenne CaƱon Park near Colorado Springs One of several hikes we did during our 5 nights at the Colorado Springs Elks Lodge. Listed as a 3.8 mile hike with 1046 feet of elevation gain at an average elevation of 8,000 feet. The trail follows Cheyenne Creek up the valley. While not a slot canyon, it is narrow enough that you definitely feel like you’re in a canyon with steep rock walls on both sides. The trail’s name comes from the 7 bridges you go over crossing the creek on your way up the trail. Blog post with Seven Bridges Hike
View in the Valley of Seven Bridges Hike
  • Seven Hollows Trail - Petit Jean State Park 70 miles outside of Little Rock Arkansas Purely coincidental that another favorite hike has Seven in its name. Petit Jean was a wonderful state park to camp in with lots of other hikes in the park. However this 4.5 mile trail with 600 feet of elevation gain was by far the best one we hiked. Being a loop trail, there were always new things to see along the way. There are numerous rock formations including an arch and a natural bridge and a slight side spur to the Grotto. It’s a popular trail but wasn’t too crowded the day we hiked. Blog post with Seven Hollows Hike

Trail Along Rock Outcropping
  • Ledges Trail - Cuyahoga Valley National Park In Hudson Ohio The Ledges Trail in Cuyahoga Valley National Park is only a 2.3 mile loop without much change in elevation. The national park is situated between the cities of Akron and Cleveland Ohio which makes the unique rock formations of this hike all that more unexpected. There are many crevices that can be explored with mosses growing on the rock face. Large trees cling to the side of the ledges and a stone staircase built by the CCC goes between the upper and lower levels. Blog post with Ledges Hike
Into a Crevice
  • Hawk Creek Valley Suspension Bridge Trail near London Kentucky This trail is part of the longer Sheltowee Trace that runs 319 miles from northern Kentucky south into northern Tennessee. We can’t vouch for the full trail, but we did find two sections of it near our campground in London Kentucky that were outstanding hikes. The first was Hawk Creek Valley Suspension Bridge Trail (starts near mile marker 180.5) that's a 3.8 mile out and back hike and is mostly forested with some large rock formations along the way. The suspension bridge mentioned in the name was taken out by a large tree since last winter but it was still a pretty hike. Blog post with Hawk Creek Hike.

Beautiful Trail in the Woods
  • Van Hook Falls and Cane Creek Valley Trail near London Kentucky A bit further south on the Sheltowee (near mile marker 198) is a section named the Van Hook Falls and Cane Creek Valley Trail. This is a 5.7 mile out and back hike that has several waterfalls along the way. While Van Hook Falls was a nice place to stop for lunch, our real treat were the numerous butterflies at the Cane Creek crossing. Blog post with Van Hook Falls hike.

Small Waterfall Along Trail

Tiger Swallowtails "Puddling"

The following map has a pin for every stop in the past 5 years - well over 200 of them. For additional info on any of them, click on the link below the map and then on the pin for the desired location. If you’re into hiking, mountain biking, geocaching or general nature photography, you may find some of the blog posts interesting if you happen to visit an area we’ve explored.

Monday, June 21, 2021

More from the Smokies

Map of this blog's locations click this link to open the map

The next journey from our private spot near Waynesville NC is for a train ride. The Great Smoky Mountains Railroad runs out of Bryson City about a 40 minute drive to the west. We had seen some advertisements about the train ride and checked out several YouTube videos to get a sense of what to expect. They offer a two different routes: the Nantahala Gorge Excursion & the Tuckasegee River Excursion. The first one is about 44 miles round trip and heads generally southwest from Bryson City to Nantahala. The second one is 32 miles round trip and heads generally southeast to Dillsboro.

We decided to go with the longer ride for a couple reasons: it runs more frequently and heads away from the towns to the east of the train station so in theory may be more scenic. Then you get the choice of which locomotive - steam or diesel. The price differential is around 10 bucks so we opt for the nostalgia of steam. The next decision is which class of service to select. They have 6 options if you don’t include the private caboose party (starting at $699 for up to 15 people). Four of the options are in enclosed cars with windows. We are taking the train ride to see the countryside not be served lunch on a train and looking out occasionally. The open air gondola has a premium option which includes a box lunch and a couple souvenirs which we can do without. So we picked the open air gondola and found a date with availability and a reasonable weather forecast and booked our tickets. We found out they consider 55 and up as seniors and get a 10% discount. About 8 hours after reserving the spot, we received and email telling us their steam locomotive had a mechanical issue and wouldn’t be available for our trip. We decided to stick with our original date and got refunded the price difference.

Mural at Train Station

We arrive in Bryson City, get parked and head to the counter to pick up our tickets. The train was sitting there ready to go. Each of the passenger cars are about 80 feet long. Add in the two locomotives, one caboose, a dining car and possibly the generator car for electricity used for lights or air conditioning, our train was close to a quarter mile long! They had 6 boarding spots along the length of the train and ours was the furthest away except for the group that were in the caboose. Given how far we were from the locomotive, the fact we had a diesel instead of steam powered seemed inconsequential. All the cars seemed to be in good condition. Our open air gondola was the Whittier - fourth car from the end. These cars don’t have assigned seating so we picked a spot at the end of series of long benches that face out the sides of the large openings. We picked the side on the left of the train but at the turn around point, they have each side switch with the other so we all get both views. On other cars with assigned seating, I might argue the left side offers better views.

Locomotive for Ride

Whittier - Our Open Air Gondola

The Caboose

Inside Whittier

The first mile or so of the ride coming out of Bryson City isn’t all that pretty. But once we cross the Tuckasegee River, the scenery improves a bit. There seem to be some nice rural homes within view of the tracks. Besides this daily train ride, it doesn’t seem like these tracks get a lot of train traffic. One unmistakable feature of the landscape in this part of North Carolina is the kudzu. It seems to grow just about everywhere and many of the hillsides along the track are completely blanketed with the invasive vine.

Scenic Countryside

Rounding a Curve

Kudzu Hill

At around the 8 mile mark, we start to see glimpses of Fontana Lake on the right side of the train. What’s nice about these open air gondola cars is the “window” openings are huge so it is possible to see things on each side of the train even if the other passengers are standing up. Fontana Lake is a rather odd shaped lake. The dam was constructed in the the early 1940’s and the valleys in the area have filled up creating a 29 mile long lake with 240 miles of shoreline. I suspect at any point on the lake you’re well within a half mile of the shore. At just under 11 miles on the ride, we cross another large truss bridge over one of the arms of Fontana Lake and can now see close up some of the boaters out on the lake as well as the marina in the town of Almond. It was around this point where the curves of the track and the terrain permitted us to look out the window and see both ends of the train.

Approaching Bridge - Watch Your Head!

Fontana Lake

Another Lake View

Almond Marina



This arm of Fontana Lake eventually becomes the Nantahala River although it isn’t clear where the naming designation changes. This section is quite pretty. The gorge is narrow through here and follows the river quite closely. There are numerous rafters and kayakers out enjoying the day on the river. At the 16 mile point, we pass the Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC) which is ground zero for most of the river activities. More on this later.

I'm Being Watched

Whitewater Section of Nantahala River

Kayakers

Rafters Preparing for Trip

Following the River and Road

The complete 44 mile route is supposed to take about four and a half hours but for some reason we were running a bit behind schedule. Unlike a plane that can sometimes make up for delays by just going a bit faster, we have some tight turns on the track and the train is forced to go slowly through them. It’s not like we are in a hurry, so we enjoy the ride. Just over 22 miles out, we come to a stop on the track where there is a second set of tracks. We are asked to trade spots with the people on the other side of the train. This too worked out well because while we are waiting, the locomotive disengages from the front of the train and slowly makes its way the the other end. Had this been the steam locomotive, we would have been in for a real treat, but it was still neat to see it slowly rumble by. We only have about 6 miles to go to get back to the NOC. This time we come to a stop for a one hour layover.

Locomotive Switches Ends

NOC Camping Area

At least one large group of passengers had signed up for the special Raft and Rail package that only does this first portion of the trip by train and then does a rafting trip on the Nantahala River. The rest of us get off the train to wander around the NOC. Everyone is warned to not attempt to eat at any of the restaurants here since you generally cannot be seated, served, eat and make it back onboard in the allotted time. I suspect they have lost a few passengers from time to time. We simply walked around and checked out a store. It is definitely a busy place. There is a whitewater kayaking course that can be seen quite well from many vantage points. The dozen kayakers out on the water were not doing the course but simply taking turns going into one of the large standing waves. Some of them were better than others in riding the wave.

View Above Kayak Course

In He Goes

Coming Out the Hard Way

The Appalachian Trail crosses the footbridge over the Nantahala River and it looked like this is a good overnight stop for many of the thru hikers. They also had other activities including a large treetop adventure course. There were lots of people playing around the course that includes tunnels and slides. Since the whole thing has a net underneath, the participants don’t need to use a harness or safety equipment. If I were only 10 years old again!

Treetop Adventures

Beautiful Old Home at NOC

After a brief tour of the NOC, we headed back to the train and re-boarded for the remaining 16 miles or so back to the terminal. Like I mentioned earlier, the view from this side of the train isn’t quite as nice. The rock walls remaining from when the tracks were installed in the late 1800’s are much closer on this side of the train. In fact you really need to pay attention if you decide to stick your head out for a look. Back at Fontana Lake we get a chance to see many of the hundreds of houseboats that dot the lake. One thing we notice when we’re on a train, most people we pass will wave at us - whether at a house, houseboat, raft or car. We get back to the station about 30 minutes later than expected, but it was a nice ride. Maybe not quite as scenic as the Verde Canyon Railroad in Clarkdale Arizona (the Sedona area), but still worth the money.

Exceptionally Green Water!

More Fontana Lake

Houseboats on Fontana Lake



Old House Starting to be Consumed by Kudzu

Nantahala Gorge Excursion Route & Elevation Profile

There is a model train museum located near the terminal that train passengers get to check it out for free. With the large crowd going thru immediately after the ride, we opted to find an ice cream shop for a treat and to let the crowd thin out. The museum is rather extensive with some very large model railroad layouts constructed in two different rooms. The detail of the cities and landscapes was impressive. There are glass cases on every wall of every room with many hundreds of different model railroad cars of all different gauges. We had to rush our visit a bit since the museum closes at a fixed time instead of an offset from when the train ride returns. It was still worth the visit. I’ve edited a short video of our train ride to give you an idea of what it is like.

Impressive Model Train


Cool Train Station

Train Moves Fast on Curve

Triple-Decker Tunnel

Old Train Cars

More Old Model Trains

Newly Painted Locomotive with Patriotic Theme

Video Link

We have visited the Smokies and Asheville a couple times prior to going full time, so we have found geocaches in many of the surrounding counties, but there were still a few counties in southwest NC that we could use. So I planned out a big driving loop that would get 2 of them. Our route takes us past the NOC and along the roads next to some of the Nantahala River. It’s a pretty drive with lots of twisty roads. We stop along the river at a viewpoint and check out some of the kayakers and rafters going thru one of the small whitewater sections. The seemed to be having fun - even the raft that ended up going thru it backwards!

Kayaker Navigates Rapids


Heading in Reverse Can Work Too!

We eventually made it to the town of Andrews where we found a rather nice rest stop to have lunch and get our caches for Cherokee county. Next we backtrack a bit and then head north to the town of Robbinsville for Graham county. The cache we picked out happened to be very near a very pretty log cabin that had chinking with stones imbedded in it. We’ve seen lots of logs cabins over the years but never one quite like this.

Very Unique Log Cabin in Robbinsville

Closeup of Log/Chinking

By this point, our original mission was accomplished and we could have just headed home by backtracking, but we had picked out a short hike just to the west of Lake Santeetlah in the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest. Kilmer is most famous for his poem “Trees” (I think that I shall never see a poem lovely as a tree…) and was killed in France during World War I. Some of the trees in this forest are rather large. It was a pretty hike although one half of our intended loop was closed so we needed to do it as an out an back.

Deep Red Flower on Carolina All Spice Bush

Chris Poses with a Big One

Bridge Over Creek

Six-Spotted Tiger Beetle Looks Metalic

From here, we continued north of Robbinsville and stopped at an interesting pedestrian suspension bridge over the Cheoah River. Another spot the majority of people will drive right by except for some geocaches. There is a pullout along the side of the road for one or two vehicles. The bridge probably spans 150 feet across the river. It really isn’t clear why the bridge is here. There is a bit of a trail on the other side but not a trail coming from the across the road. We head out to the middle with Chris even making it even though the bridge has quite a bit of sway with the two of us moving on it. There is a very large structure just up from the bridge that appears to be some sort of pipe. Given its diameter, I suspect a water pipe. From subsequent investigation, this pipe carries water from Lake Santeetlah to a power plant on Cheoah Reservoir just below Fontana Dam.

Chris Proceeds Cautiously

View from Middle of Bridge

Huge Water Pipe Over Road

From here we continue north and then east to check out the aforementioned dam. Little did I realize that our route took us right past the southern end of a road affectionately called “Tail of the Dragon”. The 11 mile stretch of US 129 just north of us has 318 curves in that short distance and is a favorite of people with sports cars or motorcycles. Probably just as well since our Jeep is no sports car. The visitor center at Fontana Dam is closed because of COVID abut it is still possible to wander the grounds and head up to the observation deck. The dam is over 2300 feet across and 480 feet tall - making it the highest dam east of the Mississippi. We were rather beat by the time we got here so we checked out the displays and the dam and then headed home.

Fontana Dam

Dam Visitor Center

Downstream of Dam

View of Spillway and Lake

Spillway's Exit

For an easy day, we head into downtown Waynesville to do a bit of a walking tour provided by a geocache. The historic district is a quaint area with several blocks of small shops and restaurants as well as some unique artwork. Walking distance down the hill from the historic district is where the railroad thru town was built. This area is called “Frog Level” probably because it is right by Richland Creek. We stopped by Frog Level Brewery to enjoy a beer while sitting outside by the creek.

"Old Time Music"

Metal Flowers

At Frog Level

Another nice thing about this part of North Carolina is the Blue Ridge Parkway runs through the area. The BRP generally runs in a southwesterly direction from its start in northern Virginia,  but just to the south of Waynesville it switches to a more northwesterly track as it heads towards Great Smoky Mountains NP. The upshot of this is we can actually head west, south, or east from our spot and run into different sections of the Parkway. One morning, we picked up the BRP near Maggie Valley and headed to the Waterrock Knob Visitor Center. We weren’t expecting rain but the clouds like to hang in the hills. We stopped at a few overlooks on the way there and wondered if we would get wet on our planned walk.

Dramatic Clouds on Blue Ridge

Another Pullout View

When we got to the large parking area at Waterrock Knob, the clouds were rolling in over the ridge but it wasn’t actually raining. We did a quick stop at the visitor center and Chris stamped her National Park Passport book before we headed up the trail to the top of the knob. It’s not a long trail at just under 1/2 mile but it is rather steep with an average 18% grade to get to the top. The first half of the walk is a paved incline that is tiring but good footing. The second half is a rocky trail that requires oneself to pay attention to your footing. I was still nursing my leg injury, so it was a slow climb, but we made it and got some nice views of the surrounding hills and valleys.

View from Trail at Waterrock Knob

Looking at Town of Cherokee 10 miles Away


Rocky Trail Up Waterrock Knob

View from Knob

Paved Section of Trail

Next post: some excursions into the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.