Patagonia Lake State Park

Map of this blog's locations click this link to open the map



When we were in Quartzsite earlier this year, we were searching for places to stay in the general Tucson area. I saw a state park about 50 miles to the south of Tucson. We hadn’t really explored this area of Arizona but from the few places we had checked out in prior trips, I had the impression this whole area south of Tucson to the Mexican border was rather desolate. The only saving grace was the name of the park - Patagonia Lake State Park. A fellow full time RVer that wrote a blog post about this park made it sound worth the effort assuming we could get a site. Most of the sites in the park only had availability for a couple days in a row. The reservation system isn’t able to easily show the calendar unless you check each site one by one. When I discovered a site had 7 nights in a row, we immediately booked it and then worked to fill in the time before and after.

It’s about 120 miles between the two state parks. Our route took us down I-19 south to Nogales Arizona just before the border crossing into Mexico. I was amazed by how large the town of Nogales is. From the looks of things, it is a major trading hub. There were dozens of large warehouses and most of them seemed to be related to fresh produce. Being careful not to get onto the route into Mexico, we turned back to the northeast and followed Arizona Route 82 for 15 miles or so before getting to the park. The drive is thru mostly desert regions but the terrain is quite hilly and unlike most of the desert areas we are familiar with. The last four miles into the park is rather winding and hilly and requires concentration to stay on the fairly narrow road.

We were pleasantly surprised to find there actually is a lake here. We have driven over many “rivers” in Arizona that are bone dry, so our skepticism has some basis. Not only is there a lake but also a marina and a rather large number of boats for the size of the lake. It is man made lake created by the damming of the Sonoita Creek. It isn’t a huge lake (about 2.5 miles long, covering 250 acres) but it is quite picturesque. Our site had 50 amp electric and water and a dump station so it should work out quite well for our week long stay.

After setting up camp, we did a brief walk around the campground and a bit of the lake.  It didn’t take long to realize that besides boating, this place is a haven for birds and also birders. Many of the other people walking the trails around the park had binoculars around their necks.

Pedestrian Bridge Over Inlet to Marina

More of Patagonia Lake

Another Bridge View

The next morning, we took a walk along the bird trail loop at the far end of the campgrounds. The park seems to have dozens of bird feeders of all different types scattered around the park. The trail goes along the edge of the lake for a bit so there were also some ducks and other waterfowl around. Past the end of the lake, the trail follows the Sonoita Creek which feeds the lake. The biggest animals we saw however were cattle. The trail goes through some open range cattle territory and there were a handful laying in the shade of the trees just off the trail. They seemed to be quite adjusted to having people around and didn’t really pay any attention to us.

Sonoita Creek Feeding Patagonia Lake

Maybe Finches?

American Coot

More Feeding

Pausing at Shore

Perched on Branch

The campground seemed to be full but it was a weekend day. We booked one of the boat tours the park offers for Sunday morning. It was a bird watching tour but that was fine by us. By late afternoon on Saturday, Chris was coming down with some sort of bug. We got up the next morning and it was clear Chris really shouldn’t be going anywhere, especially a boat ride. I wandered over solo to check in and pick out a life jacket. There would be seven paying customers as well as the guide and the ranger to drive the pontoon boat. 

Where's Our Boat?

It took a while before the boat arrived at the visitor center but it finally showed up and we headed out on the water. The winds were picking up a bit since a storm front was heading our way. The water wasn’t too choppy but the ranger did have trouble holding the boat in position when the guide asked him to stop to check out some nearby bird.

Cormorants Resting

The guide asked how many of us were experienced birders. I was the only novice of the bunch, but I figured this would be good since there would be that many other knowledgeable people on board when we spotted a bird. There is a very large diversity of birds in the area. We spotted a couple dozen different species and the guide was very good about describing their coloration, habits, and feeding behavior as we came upon them. Pictures from the rocking boat were not easy to get, but I had Chris’ good binoculars too so I found myself just watching birds more than “shooting” them.

Birders on the Prowl

Another Cormorant

Pretty Clouds

Heron

The hour ride seemed to go by quickly. We safely got back to shore before the winds got too strong. I’m not sure if the afternoon tour would go or not as the weather got worse. When I got back to the rig, I found Chris had made it out of bed and was feeling slightly better. The next morning, the rain hadn’t arrived yet and was actually rather nice. Chris was still under the weather though, so I headed out for another walk on the birding trail but with my long telephoto lens and good DSLR. I generally don’t take that combination for hikes, but I knew this one was over rather tame terrain and I would be going slow attempting to spot birds as I went.

Duck Looking for Food

After going thru the gate into the cattle zone, I started to notice a lot of unusual noises. At first I thought it might be a work crew with chain saws quite a distance away and I was simply hearing them working. It didn’t take long before I realized the noise was actually the herd of cattle mooing incessantly. Not fluent in cow speak, I couldn’t determine what all the commotion was about, but they didn’t seem happy. At one point I noticed a side trail heading up a hill and I was convinced the sound was coming from that direction so of course I felt obligated to go check it out. There are lots of small, rolling hills in this area and each time I crested one, I expected to find the upset cows. But after 20 minutes I realized I was likely just hearing the sounds bouncing off the hills. The noise stopped completely so I headed back to the main trail. I felt cheated but the views from up there were pretty nice.

View After Climbing Hill

Back on the trail, I continued only occasionally seeing a bird. It wasn’t until I got out of the cattle area and to a spot with a bench and several bird feeders that I spotted loads of birds. At first it seemed just like the common birds I’m used to but then I noticed one that looked just like a cardinal both in size and the crest on top of its head. But this “cardinal” was unlike any I have ever seen. It wasn’t the solid red of the male or the muted red of the female. Instead it had bright red patches here and there. At the time I was sitting and watching, there weren’t any other real birders to ask, but I was able to later determine it is called a pyrrhuloxia or desert cardinal. It’s a rather striking bird.

Pyrrhulloxia (I'll use Desert Cardinal)

A More Typical Male Cardinal

Female Checking Out Knot in Log

Another Desert Cardinal

Later Monday afternoon, the rain arrived and became rather miserable outside. By Tuesday, Chris was feeling somewhat better and was definitely tired of being cooped up so we found a non strenuously activity to give her a chance to get out. It was still quite cloudy but we hoped the rain was over.  Tumacacori National Historical Park isn’t too far away (about 30 miles) and sounded interesting.

Tumacacori Entrance

We lucked out and arrived 20 minutes before a docent led tour of the place was planned. We wandered around a bit on our own and then joined up with the group of about 10 visitors. Unlike the Mission San Xavier del Bac further north along I-19, Tumacacori hasn’t been fully restored. The main church was built over an extended time in the early 1800’s but by the mid 1800’s, it was abandoned and occasionally used by others, including locals that would scavenge some of the materials for their homes.

Old Church at Tumacacori

Inside of Church

Our docent was very well versed in the history of the place. Our tour took us all over the grounds and each stop had an interesting story to go along with it. The park service isn’t attempting to restore the buildings but they are definitely trying to keep them structurally sound and able to withstand the elements. It seems like a fine balance between the leave it as it was but make it safe so a big chunk of adobe does fall on somebody’s head!

Part of Cemetery

Granary

Distance View with Ominous Clouds

By the time our tour made it into the main church, the skies opened up again. Our docent stalled as long as he could but had to describe the outside of the building while we all stood inside imagining what features he was pointing to. After the tour, we rushed over to the small museum that had even more artifacts and history to examine. We had planned to do some walks on the perimeter trails since there were actually several geocaches placed along them, but the heavy rain changed our plans and we simply headed home.

Part of Main Building with Restored Ceiling Art

Original Ceiling Art in Church

Diorama of Church in Early 1800's

That night, we had rains continue and it got rather cold. It seems like being this far south (we’re only 11 miles from Mexico) we shouldn’t get near freezing but we are at 3800 feet elevation which makes all the difference. The following morning we even awoke to see a dusting of snow on the nearby hills but clear skies. I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the restroom and shower facilities in the campground at Patagonia Lake. We generally just use the shower we have in our rig but since we don’t have a sewer connection at our site and are staying for a week, we would have to get by on shorter showers. In these situations, we usually will check out the facilities at the campground and decide whether they look to be worth trying out. Well we have found possibly the best showers in a state park that we have ever come across. Excellent water pressure and the temperature could be raised to above scalding if desired. Let’s just say we took advantage of them for our stay in the park.

Snow Capped Mountains with Our Rig Foreground

Being a bright sunny morning, I walked around the park checking out birds. I doubt that I’ll ever become a true “birder” but I do seem to enjoy finding them and taking pictures. We found it a bit funny that the cowboy singer we saw last week in Picacho Peak was doing a show here at Patagonia Lake. We decided to skip the show in case he recognized us and assumed we were his groupies!

Greater Scaup - Oreo Ducks

Cormorant Drying Wings

Red Winged Black Bird

Quack Quack

Heron Poses

Later in the morning, we took a drive up north of us to a place called Empire Ranch. This historic ranch started its life back in 1876. It is presently situated on BLM land but has a foundation that cares for the ranch and all the buildings. It isn’t the most advertised place to visit in the area but Chris stumbled upon a web site that mentioned it and we figured it would be worth the look. It also isn’t the easiest place to reach. The dirt road that leads to it is within the Las Cienegas National Conservation Area which appears to have some areas where boondocking is permitted. We pull in and there was only one other vehicle in sight and they pulled out shortly after we arrived. We knew we would be on our own to explore since they only offer tours twice a month.

Large Stone/Adobe Barn

Main Ranch House

There was a motorhome parked next to the visitor center so I suspect there is a host couple that lives here. They were gone for the day and the center was closed. I discovered that the main ranch home was unlocked and the sign stated visitors were permitted to explore - just close the door. While I was inside, another car arrived and Chris discovered that the one woman was in charge of the volunteer effort at the ranch and had two friends from out of town visiting her. She was planning on giving them a personal tour and asked if we wanted to join in. Talk about good luck, this woman knew just about everything about this place and since it was a very small group, she was able to give us as much time and answer all our questions.

Dining Room with Piano

Weather Worn Door

One of the more modern looking buildings situated off to the side looked to be in good shape. This building is locked up because it needs to have asbestos abatement before the BLM managers will permit it to be opened. Our guide mentioned that there are numerous events that take place on the grounds as fund raisers but it will be some time before they get the funds to make that happen. The views from this ranch are rather nice especially on a sunny day with just a few puffy clouds.

Pretty Setting for a House

Distance Views are Spectacular Too

The home is exceptionally large. Over the past century, new rooms would be added on often in what appeared to be a rather haphazard manner. Turns out this place was also used for quite a few western movies over the years. One corner of the visitor center includes the movie posters for them. We might need to track down some of them to watch and see if we recognize any of the buildings. It was a great tour and as they headed out for other sightseeing, we went back to the car for lunch.

Sprawling Ranch House

Movies Shot at Empire Ranch

After lunch, we headed out to walk some of the trails around the property. There were a few geocaches for us to find as well. One area with lots of large cottonwood trees seemed to have experienced a fire not too long ago. The smell of burnt wood was still in the air. Signs warned us about potential falling limbs but the winds were nonexistent today so we were too concerned. There are a few other out buildings that we stumbled upon before we headed back to the car.

Fancy Gate to Trails

Fire Damaged Cottonwoods

Another Shot of Newer Home

On the way back to camp, we were passing thru the town of Patagonia and knew about some popular hummingbird viewing area. Paton Center for Hummingbirds turns out to be a private residence that the owners have set out dozens of hummingbird feeders as well as other bird feeders. There are trails that go around the house and grounds but there are benches and chairs all around to just sit and watch the birds. There were probably more than a dozen other people there so it didn’t seem quite so strange to be traipsing thru somebody’s yard.

Artwork at Paton Center

We spent a hour or so just enjoying the surroundings. We only spotted two hummingbirds - I guess it isn’t the right time of year to see the large groups that will show up. However there were plenty of other birds that would come visit the various feeding stations.

Hummingbird Pauses in Tree

Flicker?

Red-bellied Woodpecker at Orange Feeder

One Hummingbird at Feeder

Woodpecker

On our last day in the park, we headed to the Sonoita Creek State Natural Area. While technically adjacent to the state park, there aren’t any trails between the two areas. It’s about a mile drive from camp to the trailhead parking area. A permit is required to visit but they are free and can be picked up at the visitor center in the campground. It wasn’t clear how the passes are checked since there were no official vehicles or guard booth on the way in but at least we were legit.

View of Lake from Natural Area

There are a couple trails that start out of the parking area. The volunteer at the visitor center suggested we only do the nearly 3 mile loop trail even though there are lots of other trails and geocaches beyond the far end of the loop. Since Chris is still recovering, we will stay with the maintained trails. We opt to head out the Blackhawk Trail which will mean we are doing the loop counterclockwise. There isn’t much elevation change so either way would work. The trail starts out coming down an old road to the spillway at the outlet end of Patagonia Lake. It’s a concrete surface with water flowing and some debris and slick mud. We manage to cross without getting wet feet or slipping but we were rather cautious while crossing. Shortly after crossing the water, there is a path to the right that heads up to the dam. It isn’t part of the loop but we wanted to check it out. It’s a simple earthen dam but obviously does its job. There is a nice view of the lake from here as well.

Spillway to Cross

View of Patagonia Lake

Earthen Dam at Patagonia Lake

The Blackhawk Trail generally follows the path of the creek but well above the water level which provides for great views. There are a few small waterfalls and a bench with a good spot to simply relax and enjoy. The trail eventually heads down to the water level and we need to cross back over. This time there are stones positioned to give us a makeshift bridge.

Overlooking Sonoita Creek

Relaxing Bench Spot

Chris Crosses Creek

Along the trail, we run into a handful of some cattle. They were laying down close to the trail and as we approached some of them were a bit nervous and stood up in case we were dangerous. One older one was either too tired or trusted we wouldn’t do anything foolish.

Nervous Cow

Chill Cow

Barrel Cactus

We got to the intersection with the Sonoita Creek Trail as well as the other ones that head farther to the west. From our vantage point, the other trails looked quite passable but we headed back. Along the way was a small side trail with a sign for a scenic view. It was only a detour of a few hundred feet and did bring us to a bench with a nice view of the falls in the distance.

Scenic View

We headed back to the car to replenish our water supply and since we still had plenty of daylight and spare energy we decided to give the short climb up the Overlook Trail. It’s probably about half a mile each way, but it is a good climb. Rather than lots of switchbacks, the trail wraps around the backside of the hill so the grade is pretty consistent the whole way up. A bench awaits us and we sit and relax as we look over the campground and lake.

Custom Trail Map

Hill to Climb for Overlook Trail

View at End of Overlook Trail

Colorful Moth

Wrinkled Hills

We really enjoyed our stay at this park. I suspect this will become a spot we come back to in future visits. With some planning, we could probably book a site for two weeks and manage to keep busy. And with the excellent shower facilities, we could likely do that length of time without needing to go dump our tanks. Maybe we could even tackle some of the more remote trails and find those lonely geocaches hidden along them.

Next stop Bisbee Arizona - another place we haven’t visited yet but have heard good things about.