Big Bend Continuation

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Other than our stay in Cincinnati, spending 12 nights here in the Big Bend area will be the longest stop we have had. The area is big, beautiful and desolate. I suppose it wouldn't be for everybody but we have been enjoying it. The campground has been alright with our only complaint being the water quality. To say the water here is hard and tastes bad would be an understatement. If you spill a drop on the counter, when it dries you will be left with a large white spot from all the stuff in the water. Since our ice cubes are made with this water, even something like a Coke ends up having a strange flavor to it. We do get some spectacular sunsets. They can be enjoyed right from our campsite as long as you don't mind the gas station and diner being in your view.

Striking Sunset

Chris Enjoying Sunset with Reflection From the Rig

Just a little west of Study Butte is the town of Terlingua. Actually the 'ghost town' of Terlingua. We headed there one day when we were looking for something a bit less physical but still entertaining. We started out doing a geocache in town that required you to visit the cemetery and go to 3 different graves to determine the coordinates for the final cache.

The Condition of the Sign Adds to the Mystique

We have visited many cemeteries over the years from big ones like Arlington National to small pioneer ones that are no longer cared for. This has to be among the most unique cemeteries we have seen. Nearly all the graves are decorated in some manner or another. Some with elaborate metal work, candles galore, coins and all sorts of little toys and trinkets. What was weird is that even the beer bottles left at many of the sites don't make them look trashy! Apparently there is an event called Day of the Dead in early November, where the locals will come out and celebrate those that have passed before and so some of these decorations may only be several weeks old.

Sign at Entrance

One Well Decorated Grave

Wooden Crosses Mark Many Graves

The town itself used to be a big mining town and had been reasonably large but once the demand for quicksilver (mercury) diminished, so did the town. Remnants from the former "glory" days are still present - homes with only a wall or two standing, old wagons and even the elevator car that must have lifted hundreds of men out of the mines over the years.

Chris Heading Into the Mine

Old Walls Still Standing

The little store in town has a very wide assortment of things for sale from clothes to rocks to jewelry. Most of them are souvenirs with either the word Terlingua, or a chili pepper or a skull emblazoned on them. The skull is apparently in homage to the Day of the Dead celebration. The chili pepper is in reference to the huge chili cook off that is held annually each fall. From the sounds of it, this place is a hotbed of activity then. We might need to consider a return trip here for this event.
Having had an easy day, the next day would take us on a 7 to 8 mile hike covering 2 trails and part of a third trail in the national park. One popular destination is a place called the Window. There is a hike out of Chisos Basin that goes to the Window, but it is a downhill hike out making the return leg an uphill hike. (We've yet to discover that magical hiking trail that is downhill BOTH ways!) We tend to avoid trails that have this elevation profile. It just seems like you're asking for trouble. Like going on an out and back bike ride with a good tail wind the first part of the trip and trying to decide where your 1/2 way point is.

The alternative hike to the Window is to take the Oak Spring Trail. It starts below the Window and make the first leg be uphill. Plus being less popular, there are fewer people on the trail. The trailhead is over a mile back a very rough road off Ross Maxwell Scenic Road. Fortunately we did not have someone coming out as we were driving in since there were few places wide enough. We pulled in the parking area just as two guys were heading out. We chatted with them a bit and I joked that by them going first, they could be the bear's lunch. His comment was that since he is a biologist, he was hoping to see one. After we ate our lunch, we grabbed our gear and headed out.
The trail starts out being a service road to a water tower for the park but eventually takes a left hander and heads up. The trail seems to never be visible but for 50 feet in front and behind you. With all the twists and the elevation changes, even the shortish scrub that makes up the vegetation is enough to hide the trail. As we approached the first large rock outcropping, it wasn't clear which way we were going around until we got there.

First Rock Outcropping from Below

Same Outcropping from Above

Great  View Back into Chisos Mountains

There were parts of the trail, especially when we were getting higher in elevation, where the trail cuts across a slope that maybe isn't vertical, but sure looks like it when you glance down. I think we both were quite deliberate in our foot placement to avoid a big slide. After getting to a spot well above the Window, we continued on the Oak Spring trail down to the intersection with the Window trail. From there it was only about 1/4 mile to the actual Window. This portion of the trail is in a deep canyon worn smooth by water over the years. In an odd way, it was so smooth that it was nearly shiny and didn't t look like real rocks. Fortunately there wasn't much water flowing today and with the steps the park service has provided, the walk was not too bad over the smooth rock surface. At the end (assuming you stop before going over the 220 foot drop), you are facing the Window. It was quite the view. Since nobody was around to take our picture, we needed to improvise.

Steep Section of Trail - Picture Doesn't Do It Justice

The Canyon to the Window

Looking Through The Window and Its Smooth Surface

We Made It!

After we enjoyed this stop, we turned around and headed back to the Oak Spring trail. Some of the rocks have very oddly shaped patterns in them. It almost looks like rusty iron embedded in the rocks  in haphazard swirls. The hike down was not too bad once we got past the steep sections. Before we get to the parking area, there is a turn off to the Cattail Falls trail. Admittedly we were a bit tired by this time but the virtual cache we wanted to do was at the end of this trail. So off we went to do the additional 2+ miles this would add to the day's hike.

Crazy Rock Patterns

The hike didn't have nearly the elevation change as the other one so it was manageable. The trail brings you along the side of huge water runoff area that is lush and green with vegetation and is quite different from the surrounding areas. We eventually get back to the actual waterfall. Not too much was falling given how dry it has been, but at least it wasn't completely dried up.

View Heading Towards Cattail Falls

Not Much Flow at Falls

For the next day's hike, we decide we should keep it a little less strenuous to give the body a break. Maybe the 4 mile Pine Canyon trail wasn't much of a break but it was such a beautiful area that our bodies forgave us. The problem with this trail is that the trailhead is somewhat remote. Glenn Spring Road is taken for the first 2 miles off the main park road. It wasn't the worst road we have encountered in the park and was wide enough that had somebody been coming the other direction, neither of us would need to back up. However after turning onto Pine Canyon Road, things got gnarly. If I could get to 9 MPH, we had a 'smooth' stretch. Most of it required slower driving. There were half a dozen primitive campsites on the way back with only the last one having a couple tents pitched but no vehicles. The trailhead parking lot surprisingly did have one other truck there.

Starting Up Pine Canyon Trail

We started up the trail amazed by the beauty that surrounded us. We eventually were led into a bit of a canyon as we head to the falls at the end of the hike. Maybe 1/2 mile before we got to the end, we came upon a couple and their daughter coming back out. We stopped and talked with them for a couple minutes. They had not seen any bears but a ranger had told them that this would be the most likely hike in the park where bears would be seen. As we continued on, the canyon narrowed and became much more of a rock climb for the last few hundred feet. The falls barely had a trickle of water coming over the 200 foot drop. It was amazing how cool it was back here.

View Before Heading into Canyon

Falls at Pine Canyon - 200 Foot Drop, Little Water

Some Peaks Still in Sun on Way Out

Nice Colors

The hike out was pretty. We always enjoy the different views you get even though we had hiked the same trail not long ago. As we start driving down Pine Canyon Road things were going fine until I noticed a car approaching. I stopped to determine how we were going to negotiate the crossing. I suspect he didn't notice me as quickly since his line was taking him to the 'wrong' side of the road. Once he did see us, he pulled over as far as he dared in his Audi A4, and I managed to pass him on the left.