Twin Cities MN Part 3

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We had a lot to fit in during the rest of our stop at Rice Creek Chain of Lakes Campground in Lino Lakes Minnesota, a little north of St. Paul. Chris had looked into visiting the Minneapolis Institute of Art but she realized that while I would be willing to go there, it wouldn’t be high on my list. But while checking out this place, she discovered that they also owned a historic house in town and offer tours one weekend a month. What's so special about this home that would be something I might be more interested in? It is a type of architecture called Prairie School, which is a style that we both really appreciate. While not designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, it is in the same style that he was famous for. So Chris reserved spots on a tour Sunday at 1 PM.

Since it was going to be a bit of a drive from our new campground to the house, we looked at what else there is to see and do in that general direction and planned a day surrounding the house tour. We start out at Lakewood Cemetery. There are several Adventure Labs in the cemetery which should help show some of its more famous residents.

Entrance Circle at Lakewood Cemetery

This is a big cemetery covering 250 acres so we should have arrived earlier in the day if we hoped to explore the 20 stops included in our tour. There is also a walking tour provided online by the cemetery but this would have been even more daunting, with 66 stops.

Stained Glass in Chapel

A few of the famous people interred here are the founder of the Mars candy company and Herbert H. Humphrey who was a senator from Minnesota and also the Vice President during the Johnson administration in the late 1950’s. But the only person I can honestly say I remember was Herbert Khaury. You likely wouldn’t have known him by that name but you might if I said Tiny Tim - of "tiptoe through the tulips" fame.

RIP Tiny Tim

When we arrived at the the Memorial Chapel, we needed to read a plaque hanging by the front door. This shouldn’t have been a big deal to do except there was some sort of event taking place and many visitors were entering the building. I took the opportunity to walk up when the coast was clear but I was greeted by a woman at the door. Turns out there was a violinist performing that afternoon. I explained I just needed to read the sign although she did mention that she believed there were still tickets air we wanted to join them.

Memorial Chapel at Lakewood Cemetery

We had to hustle back to the car in order to have time to drive to the house tour just a few miles away and eat lunch. We managed to walk almost 3 miles and completed 13 of the planned stops. It was quite the place and hoped to come back after the tour but ended up finding something else to do.

Mars Family Mausoleum

The Purcell-Cutts house was designed by William Purcell in 1913. He was a contemporary of Frank Lloyd Wright and might have even been considered a competitor. The house was designed and built for himself and his family but they only lived in it for a few years. It was then sold to Anson Cutts in 1919 and that one family lived in and owned the home until 1985 when it was bequeathed to the Minneapolis Institute of Art in 1985. After a lengthy restoration project, it was opened to the public in 1990. The home does definitely stand out as quite different from all of the neighboring homes. One strange design element was the mostly flat roof which seems like it would be problematic in Minneapolis winters.

Exterior of Purcell-Cutts Home

Details on House Beams

Our tour consisted of one guide and about a dozen visitors. They squeeze tour groups in hourly so we start out in the front yard where we get some of the history of the architect, the design and the Cutts family that lived here for so many decades without making very many modifications so the home is essentially as it was originally designed. As the previous group leaves, we headed in to don our booties so we don’t soil the carpets - good thing because our shoes were soaked from walking through the damp grass at the cemetery for a couple hours.

Main Room

Bookcase

Desk Area

We work our way from room to room, stopping long enough to get more history as well as have some of the more unusual aspects of the home design.

Goose Rider

Tapestry

Fireplace Detail

Each room seems to have a great deal of detail including some very nice stained glass windows. The side lights at the front door have “Peek a Boo” artistically worked into the design.

Tour Group Gathered by Fireplace

More Stained Glass on Front Windows

Peek A Boo

As might be expected for the age of the house and the lack of updates to it over the years, the kitchen seems a bit underwhelming but functional. The dining room chairs were a very unique design that included small stained glass inserts in the back rest.

Minimal Kitchen

Dining Room Chairs with Stained Glass Accent

As we headed upstairs, there are even more details to catch your eye. Not all of the woodwork was quarter sawn white oak. When I asked the tour guide, she did say when it was designed, some cheaper woods were used but stained to make it look more expensive.

Stairs to Second Floor

Cozy Bed Nook

Bedroom

We enjoyed the tour of the Purcell-Cutts home. There were some beautiful features.

Unusual Lamp and Stenciling

Bathroom

Since it was a beautiful day and just midafternoon, we decided to check out some of this part of town. We had an Adventure Lab that toured us around the nearby Lake of the Isles. A trail follows the shoreline of this lake and is a flat 2.6 mile loop. It was a warm afternoon and this is a very popular place to walk, run or ride a bike. One nice aspect of the trail is there are actually separate walking and biking trails. We didn’t realize that initially but figured it out pretty quickly.

Lake of the Isles

One of the first stops a was a rather unusual lawn ornament of sorts. A homeowner had a 100 year old oak tree damaged by a storm. Rather than completely removing the tree, they had the trunk carved. The more traditional design used in chainsaw carving of a tree might be a bear or eagle, but this homeowner wanted a giant Number 2 pencil. It seemed like many visitors to the area found this place for a selfie.

Very Big No 2 Pencil

As we continued around the lake, it was clear this is a very affluent neighborhood. The homes and churches were big and beautiful with well manicured lawns and gardens.

Beautiful Stone Church

Unusual Roof Line

Our tour led us a few blocks from the walking path into the surrounding neighborhood. Our goal was to see the Mary Tyler Moore House. For those too young to remember, Mary was an actress best known for her roles in the Dick Van Dyke show in the 1960’s and The Mary Tyler Moore Show from the 1970’s. In that show she played a producer at a local Minneapolis news station. The home we were looking for was never actually Mary’s real home. It was simply used as the exterior of the place she rented an upstairs apartment for the show and appears in the opening credits. Safe to say we wouldn’t have stumbled apron this location on our own.

House Made Cameo in Mary Tyler Moore Show

We finished up the walk around the lake. Besides all the people walking and biking, there were a fair number out on the water in kayaks or other watercraft. A few teenagers were diving off a bridge trying to beat the heat. The downtown skyline can be seen in the distance. We likely ended up with a 3 mile walk and enjoyed seeing the area.

Downtown Visible Across Lake

The following day we head out for a bike ride. Our starting point will be at Duluth Junction. There are actually two different rail trails that come together here. The Gateway State Trail traverses 18 miles from just north of St Paul to the northeast to a regional park. The Browns Creek State starts at Duluth Junction and heads mainly east to the town of Stillwater. We picked this option since Stillwater looked to be an interesting place to visit and there were also numerous geocaches along this route. Trailhead parking is about a quarter mile north of the start of our trail but we simply ride along the Gateway Trail to get to our intended route.

Duluth Junction

The downside of starting at Duluth Junction and heading east is that the ride is mainly downhill to Stillwater. That’s not a problem for the first half of the ride, but we will eventually need to turn around and come back uphill. We hope the 350 feet of elevation won’t be too bad. The first few miles of the trail is nice and we manage to find a few geocaches along the way. At around 3.4 miles, we hit a detour. It wasn’t clear the cause of the closure but the good news was that even though the detour followed a road, there were independent bike lanes so car traffic wasn’t a problem.

Detour Ahead

As we approached the town of Stillwater, the dedicated bike lanes ended but there wasn’t too much traffic on the city streets. We stop at one park that overlooks the downtown area and gives a nice view of the bridges across the St Croix River. The last portion of the ride into town is down a rather steep hill which won’t be fun on the return trip.

View of St Croix River from Pioneer Park

We had timed our arrival into town for about noon and Chris had picked out a lunch stop just on the south side of town - The Oasis Cafe. We stopped to take in a few views of the river on our way to lunch. The old lift bridge was kind of neat. At one boat dock we spotted some river boats. It seemed quite odd that a town of under 20,000 people would be able to justify there being at least 5 different river boats but apparently it’s a popular pastime here.

Historic Lift Bridge

River Boats

Even More River Boats

The cafe worked well for us. They had outside seating so we could park our bikes near our table, enjoy the view and not feel self conscious about being sweaty from our 7 mile ride so far. Plus the food was good. We considered biking a loop across the river into Wisconsin and back, but realized that we should save our energy for the hill we needed to climb out of town. We stop at the old lift bridge to get a better view of it. This used to be a bridge for vehicles but was converted to pedestrian and bikes back in 2020 when a newer bridge was built downstream.

Closer Look at Lift Bridge

View of Stillwater from Bridge

We had a few more places to check out on the north side of town. The old warden’s house was neat looking building from the 1850’s. It’s now a museum but we passed on taking a look inside. The downtown area definitely looks like it has been nicely converted from some of its industrial past.

Warden's House

Former Sawmill Turned Into Retail Space

The first quarter mile coming out of town was a difficult climb but we made it. We paused for a few other stops along the way and finished the day with 15.5 miles on the bikes.

Lake McKusick

Water Lily

The next day was spent dealing with the Jeep. Our windshield washer pump didn’t seem to be working since back in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. When I had the car in for an oil change in Sheboygan, they had concluded it required a new pump but couldn’t get one delivered in the time we would be in the area. I had called a dealer in Minneapolis with the hopes that they could use the other shop’s diagnosis to order a pump and have it on hand when I brought the car in but that wasn’t how they worked. They would need to go through their own analysis. After waiting for a couple hours, the service advisor came and told me it was a bad pump but it wouldn’t arrive until tomorrow.  But instead of reassembling the car so I could drive it home and come back again tomorrow, they offered me a loaner car - a Jeep Gladiator.

Jack's New Ride?

I found the Gladiator wasn’t all that nice of a ride so we didn’t go out to drive it much the next day. Instead we decided to walk around Rice Creek Park, checking out some of the trails. There was some south sort of children’s group playing at the beach. The trails we tried were nice but partway into our walk, I received a call saying our Grand Cherokee was ready to be picked up so we headed back to the rig and drove to the dealership.

Centerville Lake Beach Near Campground

We had a geocaching event to attend from 4 to 6 this afternoon but since we got the car back much sooner than we expected, we were able to head out beforehand and find geocaches in a couple more counties to the west and north of camp. One place we stopped at was at Woodland Trails Park near the town of Elks River. We had selected this place simply because it has a cache hidden fairly early in the life of geocaching - February 2001. We have only found 35 caches that are older than this one. But it turns out that this park was also quite nice. There are several miles of trails that looked to be inviting. Unfortunately we didn’t have much time to explore if we hoped to make it to the event on time.

Woodland Trails Park

North Mickey Trail Toward Old Geocache

Our geocaching event was at Lakeside Park near the town of Blaine Minnesota. There was a great turnout although the fact that it was an ice cream social may have contributed to the good attendance. The hosts provided chocolate or vanilla ice cream with numerous toppings to make a nice sundae. We enjoyed meeting so many of the locals and picked their brains about what other things we should consider visiting as we continued our travels in their state.

Lakeside Park Near Geocaching Ice Cream Event

For our last full day in the Twin Cities area, we head to another park on the east side of St Paul. Battle Creek Regional Park is big - over 1800 acres. It has many miles of hiking trails as well as dozens of geocaches. The park is spread across a couple different areas although it does look like you can hike between them.

We start the day hiking in the easternmost section. We had possibly the most elaborate Wherigo cache we have ever attempted. For those unfamiliar, this style of cache requires running an application on a smart device and then navigating to multiple locations and answering questions. Normally a Wherigo might take you to a sign and you need to answer some trivial question like when was this plaque dedicated. This one was much more involved and to a certain extent spooky. It would place scary music as you went from one location to the next. We ended up walking over 2 miles doing this and a few other geocaches in this area. The other quite unusual thing about this park is the off leash dog park. We have seen many of these during our travels but this one was huge. The fenced in area covers 35 acres! As we wandered through it to find a cache, we saw a few dogs running around. We can only imagine how many dogs go missing when the owner decides it’s time to leave.

After eating lunch, we drive over to a different section of the park to get in a more conventional hike. This portion was clearly setup for cross country skiing. Not only were the trails fairly wide and meandering but the area was rather hilly which would make for good skiing. Maybe the more impressive aspect of the trail system is that it appears to be lighted and has snow making capability. These Minnesotans are serious about their winter activities.  We got in another 2 miles or so of hiking and found the 5 caches hidden here before heading back to camp.

Cross Country Ski Trail at Battle Creek Regional Park

We had seen earlier in our stay at Rice Creek that the small town of Centerville just a couple miles away was going to have their water ski jumping team performing that evening at 7 PM. We came back after dinner with our chairs and took in the show. Having seen the other show in Northern Wisconsin, we sort of had an idea of what to expect.

At Start of Ski Show

Flying Skiers

The Bald Eagle Water Ski Team started out with some of the younger team members - some barely big enough to stand up on their skis. Like the previous water ski program, this one had a “theme” to it. This one was loosely based on the TV show Survivor.

Barefoot Skiers

And They're Off

And Then There Were Three

The couple dozen performers were divided into a tribes and they would use the various skiing runs like Survivor uses challenges.

Occasionally skiers would be eliminated if they fell down on a jump or during some sort of acrobatic lift.

Graceful Skiers

Upside Down

If two contestants completed their performance, they would be brought up onto the stage and the audience would vote by cheering.

Coming in for Landing

Only One Landed Cleanly

They definitely put on an entertaining show and did a nice job of having something going on without large time gaps.

Two Pyramids

Four Jumpers

Lost Their Skis

This team used a special platform on the dock to build their pyramid of 6 prior to being pulled off the dock. It looked challenging but they pulled it off.

Six Person Pyramid Gets Ready

And They're Off

Success

There were lots of talented skiers although it seemed like the team we saw in Spread Eagle earlier this summer might have been just a bit more polished.

Backwards Skier

Look Ma, No Hands

As the night went on, the sun started to set across the lake and provided for some dramatic photos.

Low Sun Angle Reflection

Reenacting Lift On Dry Land

Impressive Pyramid Group

The winner of the Survivor competition was announced but the whole team celebrated.

Boat Nearly Flips!

Bald Eagle Team Celebrates

When we first made our reservations for Minnesota this past winter we had plans for 18 nights at two state parks near Bemidji. But the drive from the Twin Cities was a bit further than we typically like to travel so we had picked a Corps of Engineers campground near Brainerd as an intermediate stop along the way. It was 150 miles to Gull Lake Recreation Area. The campground was nice enough but I must admit the narrow road through it to our site was a bit nerve wracking. It didn’t help that I had someone following me in but they patiently waited while I got backed into our site. Since we got in at a reasonable time, I had the opportunity to head out for a few more caches in Minnesota counties that we haven’t been to before.

After driving around and picking up 7 more counties today, it was clear that this part of the state has some interesting places to see and we should have actually budgeted more days here to try to see some of it.

Mille Lacs Lake

Wally the Walleye